Day 7

Up at 0600 and out of the hotel, filled up with fuel and three 5lt cans. Headed to the top of the Rohtang Pass. Half way up we came to the permit checkpoint it was Indian style chaos. WE rode straight through using a van as cover Simon, Dean and Jim made it past the police officer, he put his had out and I think he said "have a nice day" and not "can I see your permit" But we all rode off like the clappers. We rode to the top and found it in chaos and it took some time to get through. The Indians do love that little bit of snow at the top.

Anyway we had made it without spending time on permits, a bit dodgy but we were up and running. We rode down the other side and found a little darbha for lunch. Following lunch we moved on but we found there has been so much commercialism since we were last here. The roads was a mixture of dust, mud, gravel and Tarmac. All the river crossing were gone, all the really good mud was gone. In 2013 there was one hotel in 385 Km now there is 30 in the first 70 km.

We started looking for a place to wild camp and at a military checkpoint we found the bridge closed till 5pm. A darbha at the checkpoint was offering home stay at 150 rupees (£1.50) each for the night. Job done for that night and meals can also be sorted. It's a bit noisy as next to the road but vey comfortable and the pair running it are lovely. Looking forward to an early night and seeing the stars.