Saturday 24 December 2011
Sunday 4 December 2011
Round the Bloc 2010
**pasted from UKGSER**
May 2010
Some of you may have seen my blog from last year’s trip called ‘Round the Bloc Tour 2009’, the link is pasted below if you fancy a read. A quick summary of that trip is as follows: Left the UK from Dover June 09 and travelled through France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Italy to Ancona and caught the ferry to Greece. Crossed Greece and took another ferry from Athens (Good job it’s not this year otherwise will be dodging the rocks and Police baton charges). Island hopped to Chios and then into Cesme, Turkey. Travelled through Turkey and spent a couple of days in Istanbul. Left Turkey and entered Bulgaria, then Romania spending a day in Bucharest with a friend. Following this entered Hungary then onto Slovakia and stopped again at Auschwitz in Poland. It was following this I made a decision to come home. The original plan was to carry on north into Eastern Europe and back to England via Scandinavia and the Arctic Circle. I realised that the original plan was just too much for one person in one trip.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185579
So onto 2010 and to finish what I started. This year’s grand plan is to take the ferry from Harwich to Denmark. Ride into Copenhagen and over the Malmo Bridge (Oresund Bridge) and travel up through Sweden. Cross the Arctic Circle on the Swedish/Finnish border and then travel down through Finland crossing the Baltic Sea, Helsinki to Tallinn in Estonia. Then travel down through Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania and into Poland. Stopping at the Hill of Crosses and the Wolf’s lair. Travel home across Poland into Germany stopping in Berlin. From Berlin back to the UK via the Channel ports.
2010 route compressed.jpg
The ferry is booked for the Demark crossing on 1st June. I will be following up on the lessons learnt last year. I have bought a smaller tent and lighter sleeping bag and have been through the equipment list crossing off all those things I didn’t use last year e.g. kettle, razor etc. I have not planned the trip to the extent of last years and will take it as it comes. The only thing I have to do is be back for work on the 17th.
I have been told about problems with mozzies in Sweden and Finland and see other riders have had problems. I am one of those people who the mozzies always feast on so any advice will be grateful. I have a built in mozzie net on the tent and will certainly be keeping the bike gear on; day and night.
This weekend I am off camping for a night with my daughter as pillion to test everything out and ‘shakedown’ the bike.
Will keep you posted on the shakedown and the preparations. Can’t wait to get started and get riding. I already have a bottle of Champagne cooling in the fridge for when I get home.
Ghostrider
Some of you may have seen my blog from last year’s trip called ‘Round the Bloc Tour 2009’, the link is pasted below if you fancy a read. A quick summary of that trip is as follows: Left the UK from Dover June 09 and travelled through France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Italy to Ancona and caught the ferry to Greece. Crossed Greece and took another ferry from Athens (Good job it’s not this year otherwise will be dodging the rocks and Police baton charges). Island hopped to Chios and then into Cesme, Turkey. Travelled through Turkey and spent a couple of days in Istanbul. Left Turkey and entered Bulgaria, then Romania spending a day in Bucharest with a friend. Following this entered Hungary then onto Slovakia and stopped again at Auschwitz in Poland. It was following this I made a decision to come home. The original plan was to carry on north into Eastern Europe and back to England via Scandinavia and the Arctic Circle. I realised that the original plan was just too much for one person in one trip.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185579
So onto 2010 and to finish what I started. This year’s grand plan is to take the ferry from Harwich to Denmark. Ride into Copenhagen and over the Malmo Bridge (Oresund Bridge) and travel up through Sweden. Cross the Arctic Circle on the Swedish/Finnish border and then travel down through Finland crossing the Baltic Sea, Helsinki to Tallinn in Estonia. Then travel down through Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania and into Poland. Stopping at the Hill of Crosses and the Wolf’s lair. Travel home across Poland into Germany stopping in Berlin. From Berlin back to the UK via the Channel ports.
2010 route compressed.jpg
The ferry is booked for the Demark crossing on 1st June. I will be following up on the lessons learnt last year. I have bought a smaller tent and lighter sleeping bag and have been through the equipment list crossing off all those things I didn’t use last year e.g. kettle, razor etc. I have not planned the trip to the extent of last years and will take it as it comes. The only thing I have to do is be back for work on the 17th.
I have been told about problems with mozzies in Sweden and Finland and see other riders have had problems. I am one of those people who the mozzies always feast on so any advice will be grateful. I have a built in mozzie net on the tent and will certainly be keeping the bike gear on; day and night.
This weekend I am off camping for a night with my daughter as pillion to test everything out and ‘shakedown’ the bike.
Will keep you posted on the shakedown and the preparations. Can’t wait to get started and get riding. I already have a bottle of Champagne cooling in the fridge for when I get home.
Ghostrider
Just got home from my shakedown to North Kent. Had a great time with my best friend and all the kids (loads of beer 
and BBQ's). The bike and all the kit seems to be working well. The best addition to the 2010 kit is a pair of £9.99 padded cycling shorts, seems to have cured the numb bum syndrome.
SANY1299 compressed.jpg
Maybe one day this cheeky little chap will follow in my footsteps!!
Two weeks to go to the start date.
Ghostrider
and BBQ's). The bike and all the kit seems to be working well. The best addition to the 2010 kit is a pair of £9.99 padded cycling shorts, seems to have cured the numb bum syndrome. SANY1299 compressed.jpg
Maybe one day this cheeky little chap will follow in my footsteps!!
Two weeks to go to the start date.
Ghostrider
Less than 48 hours to go till the ferry to Denmark. The panniers are packed and waiting to be fitted. The excitement is building and I can't wait to start. I have still got two days of work, leaving early on Tuesday to catch the ferry. The packing is a tad smaller than last year, taking my own advice and leaving most of it behind
SANY1312.jpg
The next update should be on the road
Bon voyage
(Gonna miss little ROO, my baby is away and not back till after I go. xx)
SANY1312.jpg
The next update should be on the road
Bon voyage
(Gonna miss little ROO, my baby is away and not back till after I go. xx)
It all started so well. Got up for work nice and early, little bit of a hangover from finishing up that bottle of red wine. Left on time and did my day at work. All the time I was watching the Beemer from the window packed and ready to roll. At 1pm I was changed into the bike gear and ready to go. A couple of work friends arrived to see me off (thanks guys). It was then that I felt the first drops of rain falling. Anyway had to get going needed to get to Harwich for the ferry. As I headed towards the M25 the rain got harder and harder. When I reached M2/M25 it was gridlocked. I filtered my way in and out through the traffic all the way to the Dartford Tunnel tolls. What a relief to be in the tunnel out of the sodding rain.
It was still raining just as hard on the Essex side. Time to get motoring as I had been held up. Five miles later I was presented with a sea of brake lights, a rear end shunt glass all over the carriageway. This just the aftermath of another accident further on. An Essex Police Subaru Impreza came flying past on the hard shoulder and within a few minutes I had filtered my way to the front. A Ford Fiesta minus it front wheel sat in the middle and fast lane. The cops tried to push it out eventually getting some bloke in a transit van to drag it out of the live lanes. The best thing was it was being filmed by one of those ‘fly on the wall’ following the traffic cops programmes. Ghostrider has got himself on the telly at the front of the traffic queue.
Fifteen minutes later with the carriageway clear we are off again. Oh by the way it is still bloody raining. So I am now thinking “Am I going to get to the ferry in time”. So I blast it down the M25 and onto the A12. It was raining cats and dogs, I could feel the water sloshing around in my boots, Gloves have become sodden. Eventually got to Harwich topped up with fuel and checked-in. Handy having a bike filtered to the front with all the other bikes. Then had a 40 minute wait IN THE RAIN to load onto the ferry.
Once on the ferry we had to strap down our own bikes whilst the crew turned the cars around behind us, some twat in a van nearly ran over my helmet. I was soaked to the skin. I made my way to my cabin and have hung up every item of clothing to dry. The heating is on full blast and I am in the bar writing as it is too hot in my cabin. Cabin is good up to 4 beds with its own bog and shower. That hot shower felt good. Put on some dry shoes and trousers, wet t-shirt and went on deck to see us leave. It was still raining. Phoned Mrs G to say bye bye. Had a quick walk around and realised it was a Danish boat and what didn’t I bring...Danish money, bollocks. Had to wait till 8pm for the bureau de change. Then went to the cafe for tea. Get this Cheese roll, crisps and a coffee 99DK in English that’s £14 yes £14.
Bought some internet time to post this and have a quick MSN with the kids. Gonna have an early night, no beer because I already have one mortgage and don’t want another (£5 a pint). I’m sure my liver will thank me later. There a singer later in bar doesn’t look like my sort of music (No drum kits or heavy metal guitars).
In keeping with last years blog I will commenting on the European women whilst on my travels and all other things that us motorcyclists like to look at. So, there is no crumpet on this entire ship apart from one hippy bird with the words ‘give random acts of kindness’ stitched on her bicycle pannier. She asked me to swap bikes you can imagine the reply, it had ‘off’ in the sentence.
Right I’m off now to get some kip and will try to update you in the next couple of days. Lets hope that rain stops, just looked out of the port hole and its thick fog (Iceberg ahead-Titanic thoughts enter my head).
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
PS Love you babe (Mrs G)
PPS Jerry, watch that saturated fat, wine is OK
PPPS Its still bloody raining
It was still raining just as hard on the Essex side. Time to get motoring as I had been held up. Five miles later I was presented with a sea of brake lights, a rear end shunt glass all over the carriageway. This just the aftermath of another accident further on. An Essex Police Subaru Impreza came flying past on the hard shoulder and within a few minutes I had filtered my way to the front. A Ford Fiesta minus it front wheel sat in the middle and fast lane. The cops tried to push it out eventually getting some bloke in a transit van to drag it out of the live lanes. The best thing was it was being filmed by one of those ‘fly on the wall’ following the traffic cops programmes. Ghostrider has got himself on the telly at the front of the traffic queue.
Fifteen minutes later with the carriageway clear we are off again. Oh by the way it is still bloody raining. So I am now thinking “Am I going to get to the ferry in time”. So I blast it down the M25 and onto the A12. It was raining cats and dogs, I could feel the water sloshing around in my boots, Gloves have become sodden. Eventually got to Harwich topped up with fuel and checked-in. Handy having a bike filtered to the front with all the other bikes. Then had a 40 minute wait IN THE RAIN to load onto the ferry.
Once on the ferry we had to strap down our own bikes whilst the crew turned the cars around behind us, some twat in a van nearly ran over my helmet. I was soaked to the skin. I made my way to my cabin and have hung up every item of clothing to dry. The heating is on full blast and I am in the bar writing as it is too hot in my cabin. Cabin is good up to 4 beds with its own bog and shower. That hot shower felt good. Put on some dry shoes and trousers, wet t-shirt and went on deck to see us leave. It was still raining. Phoned Mrs G to say bye bye. Had a quick walk around and realised it was a Danish boat and what didn’t I bring...Danish money, bollocks. Had to wait till 8pm for the bureau de change. Then went to the cafe for tea. Get this Cheese roll, crisps and a coffee 99DK in English that’s £14 yes £14.
Bought some internet time to post this and have a quick MSN with the kids. Gonna have an early night, no beer because I already have one mortgage and don’t want another (£5 a pint). I’m sure my liver will thank me later. There a singer later in bar doesn’t look like my sort of music (No drum kits or heavy metal guitars).
In keeping with last years blog I will commenting on the European women whilst on my travels and all other things that us motorcyclists like to look at. So, there is no crumpet on this entire ship apart from one hippy bird with the words ‘give random acts of kindness’ stitched on her bicycle pannier. She asked me to swap bikes you can imagine the reply, it had ‘off’ in the sentence.
Right I’m off now to get some kip and will try to update you in the next couple of days. Lets hope that rain stops, just looked out of the port hole and its thick fog (Iceberg ahead-Titanic thoughts enter my head).
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
PS Love you babe (Mrs G)
PPS Jerry, watch that saturated fat, wine is OK
PPPS Its still bloody raining
Hi everybody - Mrs Ghostrider here.
Heard from Geoff last night - he has been throwing up and sitting on the loo most of the day and the previous night on the ferry to Denmark. He is feeling very weak and cannot keep any food down.
He is going to try and get the ferry back to England as he feels that he will not be able to ride any further on this trip. He's not a happy bunny
Heard from Geoff last night - he has been throwing up and sitting on the loo most of the day and the previous night on the ferry to Denmark. He is feeling very weak and cannot keep any food down.
He is going to try and get the ferry back to England as he feels that he will not be able to ride any further on this trip. He's not a happy bunny
Hi all
Nightmare just about explains it.
Awoke during the early hours with the raging D&Vs on the ferry. Spent most of the night in and out of the bog, thankfully I had a fully equipped cabin.
Landed at 1300 and went ashore still feeling awful. Decided to spend the day in Esjberg and found a suitable place to hole up with attached facilities.
By the end of the day I was feeling no better. I had a decision to make
1. hotel for a couple of days - but the trip end is time critical.
2. Get on the motorway - not an option at this stage.
3. Get the ferry home with cabin - best option.
Spoke to Mrs G at home and had a long discussion and decided to come back to Blighty. Got another ferry booking at a ridiculously expensive price.
Once on the ferry got under the duvet and stayed there until an hour before we reached Harwich. (again very pleased it was a fully equipped cabin). Made my way home to Kent and went to bed to emerge 24 hours later feeling a bit better.
Its safe to say the trip for this year is over
The Artic Circle will have to wait...Next years trip is already being planned for and Mrs G has denied permission for two big trips in one year.
2011 is going to be with Enduro-Cambo two weeks trail riding in Cambodia.
Sorry to disappoint you blog readers, I am gutted not to have finished the Bloc tour.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
PS I will be back
Nightmare just about explains it.
Awoke during the early hours with the raging D&Vs on the ferry. Spent most of the night in and out of the bog, thankfully I had a fully equipped cabin.
Landed at 1300 and went ashore still feeling awful. Decided to spend the day in Esjberg and found a suitable place to hole up with attached facilities.
By the end of the day I was feeling no better. I had a decision to make
1. hotel for a couple of days - but the trip end is time critical.
2. Get on the motorway - not an option at this stage.
3. Get the ferry home with cabin - best option.
Spoke to Mrs G at home and had a long discussion and decided to come back to Blighty. Got another ferry booking at a ridiculously expensive price.
Once on the ferry got under the duvet and stayed there until an hour before we reached Harwich. (again very pleased it was a fully equipped cabin). Made my way home to Kent and went to bed to emerge 24 hours later feeling a bit better.
Its safe to say the trip for this year is over
The Artic Circle will have to wait...Next years trip is already being planned for and Mrs G has denied permission for two big trips in one year.
2011 is going to be with Enduro-Cambo two weeks trail riding in Cambodia.
Sorry to disappoint you blog readers, I am gutted not to have finished the Bloc tour.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
PS I will be back
Round the Bloc 2009 blog
**pasted from UKGSERS site** exploits in June 2009
Hi all
I have been a motorcyclist most of my life but only in the last few years have I taken up touring. This trip is my most adventurous so far. I was inspired after watching C+E in the LWR; if they can do it so can I (without the backup). This is also the first time of using a blog to record my travelling.
Me and a few mates have done round England trips incorporating my love of football by visiting all the Premier league grounds and the obligatorily Alps trip. My wife and I have also managed a couple trips into France and Belgium which is quite easy as we live close to Dover.
Last summer I was the big 40 and decided I would mark the occasion by going to the BMW off road school in Wales to have a go at ‘off roading’; this course was a defining moment of my life not only did I fall in love with BMWs I also caught the off roading bug. So after 2 days of racing around Walters Arena behind Patsy Quick and trying all the different bikes I went home and badgered the wife for a new F800GS.
Persistence pays off and in November 2008 I was the proud owner of a bumble bee F800GS.
Since the summer I had been in initial planning for a mammoth trip in 2010. I thought I would like to cross over the Bosphorus in Istanbul and conquer the first few miles of Asia. The biggest mistake is loading up Google Earth and maps because the route quickly got bigger and bigger. After deciding on a route I made the tentative enquiries with my boss about a month off in June 2009 or 2010 and go the OK quite easily. Then the big one, the wife said yes as well. No questions as to Why, What etc just a stone bonker ‘yes’. The date was fixed 1st June 2009 to 30th June 2009 (30 days off ...heaven).
At this point emergency planning went into operation and in two days it was all planned and done. The Garmin was programmed, Amazon were delivering a 6’x6’ box of maps of Europe. I resisted the urge to start packing clothes. Sadly it was still only September, 10 months prior to the start date. From this point on and a reality check later planning went onto the back burner.
Jump forward to the start of 2009 and New Years day felt like a week before lift off and I was telling everybody I could about my pending trip. Most of the motorcyclists I know were full of questions about how, where etc and lots commented about travelling alone. I prefer to travel alone I get to do the things I want and I get to talk to very interesting people. Those non motorcyclists have no idea including one buffoon I work with who now refers to me as Johnny bowman (a referral to Charley Boorman).
A few hundred pounds later I had kitted out the new bumble bee with SW Motech rails, Alpos panniers, Git bashplate and Luggage plate, Touratech handguards, GPS holder and a Scott oiler. Ebay provided an Oxford strap-on tank bag which fits like a dream.
Jump forward again to April 2009 and finally the route is as solid as raspberry jelly. Every time I turn on the telly I see something else in Europe which is just around the corner and is a must see. Latest additions include the Wolfs Lair in Northern Poland (Thanks to Harry Enfields programme) and Vlad the Impalers castle in Hunedoara, Romania (Thanks to the Hairy Bikers).
The Route
The route is as follows:
France
Belgium
Germany
Austria
Italy (Ferry from Ancona to Igoumenitsa, Greece)
Greece (Ferry from Athens to Chois) - Visting the Acropolis
Greek Islands (Ferry from Chois to Cesme, Turkey)
Turkey - Visiting the Blue Mosque in Instanbul and Asia
Bulgaria
Romania - Visiting Dracula Castle in Transylvania and Vlad the Impalers Castle
Hungary
Slovakia
Poland - visiting Auschwitz, Krakow and Warsaw
Lithuania - visiting the Wolfs Lair
Latvia
Estonia (Ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki)Finland - Crossing the Arctic Circle
Sweden
Denmark
Germany
Holland
Belgium
France
Total mileage (approx including ferries) 6680 miles, 19 different countries, 30 days.
The Shakedown
Every motorcycle adventure book and website suggests that before the big trip take a small trip. This is known as the ‘shakedown’. So last weekend the bike was packed including my 12 year old daughter (who is nuts about bikes) and off we went for a day trip around Kent and Sussex. The overnight camp was in Bexhill, Sussex.
Of the small amount of problems identified the major one was my self-inflating bed mat was in fact a self-deflating bed mat due a small hole in it. A very uncomfortable night on the floor was had. Glad I found this one as 30 days sleeping on the floor would have been a nightmare.
The plan for the trip is to camp on official sites, wild camp and in cities like Istanbul get cheap hotels that have secure parking for bikes. This site has been a great help in finding accommodation in Istanbul.
One of the major decisions is communication with home and friends. I have thought about taking my laptop and charging it from the BMW accessory socket but the laptop becomes a ball and chain and there is the thought of breaking it or having it stolen. I have decided to rely on internet cafes and hotels to update this thread. I am taking an IPod touch which has WIFI access and I can send and receive emails use Google maps, Google Earth and basic internet access after piggy-backing an open WIFI source. It’s a bit more discreet walking around with an IPod rather than a laptop searching for a signal. There’s always the mobile in an emergency.
So this brings me to today May 2009 less than a month to lift off. What’s left to organise?
• Service the bike
• Change money
• Pack the panniers (1/2 done already)
• Piss up with the lads
• Buy a new Self INFLATING sleeping mat
• Tell everybody yet again all about my trip
For those of you still reading, Thanks and I will update soon with all the preparation prior to lift off.
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
I have been a motorcyclist most of my life but only in the last few years have I taken up touring. This trip is my most adventurous so far. I was inspired after watching C+E in the LWR; if they can do it so can I (without the backup). This is also the first time of using a blog to record my travelling.
Me and a few mates have done round England trips incorporating my love of football by visiting all the Premier league grounds and the obligatorily Alps trip. My wife and I have also managed a couple trips into France and Belgium which is quite easy as we live close to Dover.
Last summer I was the big 40 and decided I would mark the occasion by going to the BMW off road school in Wales to have a go at ‘off roading’; this course was a defining moment of my life not only did I fall in love with BMWs I also caught the off roading bug. So after 2 days of racing around Walters Arena behind Patsy Quick and trying all the different bikes I went home and badgered the wife for a new F800GS.
Persistence pays off and in November 2008 I was the proud owner of a bumble bee F800GS.
Since the summer I had been in initial planning for a mammoth trip in 2010. I thought I would like to cross over the Bosphorus in Istanbul and conquer the first few miles of Asia. The biggest mistake is loading up Google Earth and maps because the route quickly got bigger and bigger. After deciding on a route I made the tentative enquiries with my boss about a month off in June 2009 or 2010 and go the OK quite easily. Then the big one, the wife said yes as well. No questions as to Why, What etc just a stone bonker ‘yes’. The date was fixed 1st June 2009 to 30th June 2009 (30 days off ...heaven).
At this point emergency planning went into operation and in two days it was all planned and done. The Garmin was programmed, Amazon were delivering a 6’x6’ box of maps of Europe. I resisted the urge to start packing clothes. Sadly it was still only September, 10 months prior to the start date. From this point on and a reality check later planning went onto the back burner.
Jump forward to the start of 2009 and New Years day felt like a week before lift off and I was telling everybody I could about my pending trip. Most of the motorcyclists I know were full of questions about how, where etc and lots commented about travelling alone. I prefer to travel alone I get to do the things I want and I get to talk to very interesting people. Those non motorcyclists have no idea including one buffoon I work with who now refers to me as Johnny bowman (a referral to Charley Boorman).
A few hundred pounds later I had kitted out the new bumble bee with SW Motech rails, Alpos panniers, Git bashplate and Luggage plate, Touratech handguards, GPS holder and a Scott oiler. Ebay provided an Oxford strap-on tank bag which fits like a dream.
Jump forward again to April 2009 and finally the route is as solid as raspberry jelly. Every time I turn on the telly I see something else in Europe which is just around the corner and is a must see. Latest additions include the Wolfs Lair in Northern Poland (Thanks to Harry Enfields programme) and Vlad the Impalers castle in Hunedoara, Romania (Thanks to the Hairy Bikers).
The Route
The route is as follows:
France
Belgium
Germany
Austria
Italy (Ferry from Ancona to Igoumenitsa, Greece)
Greece (Ferry from Athens to Chois) - Visting the Acropolis
Greek Islands (Ferry from Chois to Cesme, Turkey)
Turkey - Visiting the Blue Mosque in Instanbul and Asia
Bulgaria
Romania - Visiting Dracula Castle in Transylvania and Vlad the Impalers Castle
Hungary
Slovakia
Poland - visiting Auschwitz, Krakow and Warsaw
Lithuania - visiting the Wolfs Lair
Latvia
Estonia (Ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki)Finland - Crossing the Arctic Circle
Sweden
Denmark
Germany
Holland
Belgium
France
Total mileage (approx including ferries) 6680 miles, 19 different countries, 30 days.
The Shakedown
Every motorcycle adventure book and website suggests that before the big trip take a small trip. This is known as the ‘shakedown’. So last weekend the bike was packed including my 12 year old daughter (who is nuts about bikes) and off we went for a day trip around Kent and Sussex. The overnight camp was in Bexhill, Sussex.
Of the small amount of problems identified the major one was my self-inflating bed mat was in fact a self-deflating bed mat due a small hole in it. A very uncomfortable night on the floor was had. Glad I found this one as 30 days sleeping on the floor would have been a nightmare.
The plan for the trip is to camp on official sites, wild camp and in cities like Istanbul get cheap hotels that have secure parking for bikes. This site has been a great help in finding accommodation in Istanbul.
One of the major decisions is communication with home and friends. I have thought about taking my laptop and charging it from the BMW accessory socket but the laptop becomes a ball and chain and there is the thought of breaking it or having it stolen. I have decided to rely on internet cafes and hotels to update this thread. I am taking an IPod touch which has WIFI access and I can send and receive emails use Google maps, Google Earth and basic internet access after piggy-backing an open WIFI source. It’s a bit more discreet walking around with an IPod rather than a laptop searching for a signal. There’s always the mobile in an emergency.
So this brings me to today May 2009 less than a month to lift off. What’s left to organise?
• Service the bike
• Change money
• Pack the panniers (1/2 done already)
• Piss up with the lads
• Buy a new Self INFLATING sleeping mat
• Tell everybody yet again all about my trip
For those of you still reading, Thanks and I will update soon with all the preparation prior to lift off.
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Five days to go.
It has been a long month, perhaps the longest on record. I have two more days work before D Day. Every passing hour I think about nothing else but the trip. Numerous people at work have asked me about it and I am certainly not getting bored talking about it, however some are bored to death with it and wishing I would go now.
Anyway been to Asda to buy the supplies, changed the money up and bought the new self inflating sleeping mat. Managed to get the money back on the old one---mugs.
Bikes all serviced and the tyres are slimed. The bike is ready to roll and I even have a full tank of fuel. The packing has not really started but all the things I need are ready on the garage floor to be packed into the panniers. I have thrown out all the unnecessary items: hairdryer (I’ve shaved all my hair off). The photo below is the kit laid out whilst we go though the packing list.
SANY0006w.jpg
The only thing left on the list is the ‘quiet jolly with my buddies’, the piss up is arranged for Friday night at Canterbury Cricket ground Kent V Middlesex 20/20 game. Should be a great laugh and hopefully Kent can win.
Then just a weekend of family duties and hey presto its time to go.
6am ferry from Dover on Monday morning. Can’t wait. Hopefully post some packed bike pictures over the weekend. One thing I hadn’t planned for is that I will be arriving in Istanbul on the weekend of the F1 GP. That could be good or bad (Good) never been to a GP (Bad) Hotels all full. Find out when I get there??
Post soon
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
It has been a long month, perhaps the longest on record. I have two more days work before D Day. Every passing hour I think about nothing else but the trip. Numerous people at work have asked me about it and I am certainly not getting bored talking about it, however some are bored to death with it and wishing I would go now.
Anyway been to Asda to buy the supplies, changed the money up and bought the new self inflating sleeping mat. Managed to get the money back on the old one---mugs.
Bikes all serviced and the tyres are slimed. The bike is ready to roll and I even have a full tank of fuel. The packing has not really started but all the things I need are ready on the garage floor to be packed into the panniers. I have thrown out all the unnecessary items: hairdryer (I’ve shaved all my hair off). The photo below is the kit laid out whilst we go though the packing list.
SANY0006w.jpg
The only thing left on the list is the ‘quiet jolly with my buddies’, the piss up is arranged for Friday night at Canterbury Cricket ground Kent V Middlesex 20/20 game. Should be a great laugh and hopefully Kent can win.
Then just a weekend of family duties and hey presto its time to go.
6am ferry from Dover on Monday morning. Can’t wait. Hopefully post some packed bike pictures over the weekend. One thing I hadn’t planned for is that I will be arriving in Istanbul on the weekend of the F1 GP. That could be good or bad (Good) never been to a GP (Bad) Hotels all full. Find out when I get there??
Post soon
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Hooray Kent won the cricket convincingly and we all got suitably pissed.
You may think that the group in the photo are Special Forces or similar but you would be wrong; my friends are so ugly I cannot allow them to be seen on the internet. 
SANY0027sas.jpg
Spent most of Saturday and Sunday morning packing the bike up. It’s all done and I am ready to go. Doubtful if I’ll sleep tonight. Mrs Ghostrider says she’s going to miss me, the mini Ghostriders have given me father’s day cards sealed until 21st. I now have 15 hours of pacing up and down the lounge until I leave. Look on the bright side Big Brother should be finishing when I return, just a shame I had to be here to experience Britain’s got (no) talent.
Bloc 025.JPG
Next post should be from somewhere in Europe.
Have fun
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
You may think that the group in the photo are Special Forces or similar but you would be wrong; my friends are so ugly I cannot allow them to be seen on the internet. SANY0027sas.jpg
Spent most of Saturday and Sunday morning packing the bike up. It’s all done and I am ready to go. Doubtful if I’ll sleep tonight. Mrs Ghostrider says she’s going to miss me, the mini Ghostriders have given me father’s day cards sealed until 21st. I now have 15 hours of pacing up and down the lounge until I leave. Look on the bright side Big Brother should be finishing when I return, just a shame I had to be here to experience Britain’s got (no) talent.
Bloc 025.JPG
Next post should be from somewhere in Europe.
Have fun
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Day one
Didn’t sleep a wink way too excited. Got down to Dover docks and was boarded straight away and was near the front of the queue for a fat boys breakfast. It was worth £7.49.
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Arrived in France 08.30hrs their time and hit the motorway. France very soon became Belgium, passed in a field just prior to Brussels a number of 10ft high blue and red plastic bunnies? Went around Brussels and started to head south into Germany. Passed masses of bike traffic on their way back from the MOTO GP in Italy. I got a bit lost around Stuttgart but managed to find an alternative route. Came off the motorway at the end of the day to find a camp site and managed to get pinged by a speed camera in a village. Maybe I am now wanted in Germany for speeding (Only got my ugly mug forward facing camera). Found a campsite in a town called Ellwangen which is close to Ulm. Put up the tent and ate my packed lunch for tea. Total miles today a whopping 520. Went to bed nice and early.
At 2200 hours I was awoken by a firework display above my tent from a local park which was hosting a fairground. Back to sleep within minutes of it ending.
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Didn’t sleep a wink way too excited. Got down to Dover docks and was boarded straight away and was near the front of the queue for a fat boys breakfast. It was worth £7.49.
SANY0045c.jpg
Arrived in France 08.30hrs their time and hit the motorway. France very soon became Belgium, passed in a field just prior to Brussels a number of 10ft high blue and red plastic bunnies? Went around Brussels and started to head south into Germany. Passed masses of bike traffic on their way back from the MOTO GP in Italy. I got a bit lost around Stuttgart but managed to find an alternative route. Came off the motorway at the end of the day to find a camp site and managed to get pinged by a speed camera in a village. Maybe I am now wanted in Germany for speeding (Only got my ugly mug forward facing camera). Found a campsite in a town called Ellwangen which is close to Ulm. Put up the tent and ate my packed lunch for tea. Total miles today a whopping 520. Went to bed nice and early.
At 2200 hours I was awoken by a firework display above my tent from a local park which was hosting a fairground. Back to sleep within minutes of it ending.
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Day two
Up nice and early had a tin of beans and sausages for breakfast with the most delicious bread rolls provided by the nice German woman at the camp site. Spent too long sorting out the kit and subsequently left late. Motored on into Austria and sent on a diversion which brought me out onto a motorway junction I had got lost at in 2005. Not a good place for me as I forgot to look the other way and a nice Austrian lady had to toot at me, better that knocking me off. Bought a vignette for the Austrian motorway (thought I better already in trouble with the Germans). Then I travelled through the Alps...the roads were great apart from the heavy traffic and the rain. The views were amazing even saw some nuns but they weren’t singing or running through the fields; their Fiat was broken down on a twisty Alp road.
Once in Innsbruck went for the Brenner Pass, stopped briefly at the Macdonald’s prior to the toll booths and test the theory ‘Does all Macdonald’s have free internet’ the answer is yes and sent a few emails over coffee before the rain was threatening to soak the laptop. (Yes I took my laptop after saying it was going to be a ball and chain and it is). I saw the weirdest thing in the car park of MacDonald’s...Two plain clothes Austrian police officers in an unmarked car with a laptop on the dashboard and every time somebody parked in a particular space they would shout, flash the sirens and blue lights and move the driver on? Not discreetly but so everybody in the car park saw. I have two theories about this 1. There were on the internet and this blocked their signal 2. Looking for fugitive German speeders. Any buggered off to Italy as quickly as possible.
The Brenner Pass was worth every cent of the 8 Euro toll the views and landscapes were brilliant even at 80 mph. Then entered the Dolomite Mountains which I can only describe as being like Chedder Gorge on speed. Anyway a few hours later and still in the Dolomites and still having grapevines and on both sides of the road was getting a tad boring.
Got lost on the motorway system and went towards Milan in the words of Homer DOH, completely the wrong way. All Italian Autostradas are toll roads and I have abused the credit card at the toll booths. For those coming to Italy be warned the road signs are rubbish and I missed loads of junctions and some of the driver are complete morons. Another thing the speeds are in km, distance is in miles.
I must now mention the weather; as you may recall it was raining so as all good motorcyclists I put on my wet weather gear. Now as we dropped out of the Dolomites my Temperature gauge was reading 30.5 degrees. Soon stopped and removed the wet weather stuff and was drinking litres of water to re hydrate.
As the day wore on I left the motorway to find a campsite; I struggled to find one but eventually did close to Ravenna. It was 6 miles from the main road and when I got there I wasn’t sure I was in the right place so I went in this restaurant and it was indeed a camp site but also a bird sanctuary. The waitress said if I have meal no charge for the camping. A place was prepared for me and I sat down to cold sardines with onions, pasta/pesto and rice salad, onions and lamb and espresso coffee. It was all good especially as I spent the day on extra strong mints and water.
At 2200 hours I put up the tent in the dark and fell into bed, 506 miles today.
SANY0071c.jpg
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Up nice and early had a tin of beans and sausages for breakfast with the most delicious bread rolls provided by the nice German woman at the camp site. Spent too long sorting out the kit and subsequently left late. Motored on into Austria and sent on a diversion which brought me out onto a motorway junction I had got lost at in 2005. Not a good place for me as I forgot to look the other way and a nice Austrian lady had to toot at me, better that knocking me off. Bought a vignette for the Austrian motorway (thought I better already in trouble with the Germans). Then I travelled through the Alps...the roads were great apart from the heavy traffic and the rain. The views were amazing even saw some nuns but they weren’t singing or running through the fields; their Fiat was broken down on a twisty Alp road.
Once in Innsbruck went for the Brenner Pass, stopped briefly at the Macdonald’s prior to the toll booths and test the theory ‘Does all Macdonald’s have free internet’ the answer is yes and sent a few emails over coffee before the rain was threatening to soak the laptop. (Yes I took my laptop after saying it was going to be a ball and chain and it is). I saw the weirdest thing in the car park of MacDonald’s...Two plain clothes Austrian police officers in an unmarked car with a laptop on the dashboard and every time somebody parked in a particular space they would shout, flash the sirens and blue lights and move the driver on? Not discreetly but so everybody in the car park saw. I have two theories about this 1. There were on the internet and this blocked their signal 2. Looking for fugitive German speeders. Any buggered off to Italy as quickly as possible.
The Brenner Pass was worth every cent of the 8 Euro toll the views and landscapes were brilliant even at 80 mph. Then entered the Dolomite Mountains which I can only describe as being like Chedder Gorge on speed. Anyway a few hours later and still in the Dolomites and still having grapevines and on both sides of the road was getting a tad boring.
Got lost on the motorway system and went towards Milan in the words of Homer DOH, completely the wrong way. All Italian Autostradas are toll roads and I have abused the credit card at the toll booths. For those coming to Italy be warned the road signs are rubbish and I missed loads of junctions and some of the driver are complete morons. Another thing the speeds are in km, distance is in miles.
I must now mention the weather; as you may recall it was raining so as all good motorcyclists I put on my wet weather gear. Now as we dropped out of the Dolomites my Temperature gauge was reading 30.5 degrees. Soon stopped and removed the wet weather stuff and was drinking litres of water to re hydrate.
As the day wore on I left the motorway to find a campsite; I struggled to find one but eventually did close to Ravenna. It was 6 miles from the main road and when I got there I wasn’t sure I was in the right place so I went in this restaurant and it was indeed a camp site but also a bird sanctuary. The waitress said if I have meal no charge for the camping. A place was prepared for me and I sat down to cold sardines with onions, pasta/pesto and rice salad, onions and lamb and espresso coffee. It was all good especially as I spent the day on extra strong mints and water.
At 2200 hours I put up the tent in the dark and fell into bed, 506 miles today.
SANY0071c.jpg
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Day three
Awoke to the sounds of birds..well I am on a bird sanctuary, thought I saw a DODO, maybe not. I am the only person here!!! That is until a man appeared from the back of an apparently abandoned van. Cold shower, no breakfast got to get to the Ancona ferry by lunchtime. Suns out all ready and the liners have been removed from the bike gear.
Those dam roads signs again taking me miles out of my way...40 mile detour. The GPS says 97 miles to Ancona the road signs say 143. Anyway hammer time arrived in Ancona at 1030 ish. Even managed to go through San Marino, thats another country visited.
All that planning what a waste of time, the Superfast ferry doesn’t run to Igoumenitsa today so I am on ANEK lines sailing at 16:00...5 hours time. Whilst waiting chat to a German biker and a British FJR rider from London. Loading was at 16:00 and was like a GP start. My bike is tied with rope to overhead pipes in the lower deck god knows what I will find tomorrow.
So right now we are sailing to Greece, I have an aircraft style seat which looks great in the brochure but it doesn’t show all the others who are laid out on the floor wherever there is a space. We don’t arrive until 8am what a night I’m going to have. Its cost me 6 Euros to have an hour on the internet but I am nicking their electricity.
Going to have something to eat now got a splitting headache from being out in the sun all day, its really really hot.
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Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Awoke to the sounds of birds..well I am on a bird sanctuary, thought I saw a DODO, maybe not. I am the only person here!!! That is until a man appeared from the back of an apparently abandoned van. Cold shower, no breakfast got to get to the Ancona ferry by lunchtime. Suns out all ready and the liners have been removed from the bike gear.
Those dam roads signs again taking me miles out of my way...40 mile detour. The GPS says 97 miles to Ancona the road signs say 143. Anyway hammer time arrived in Ancona at 1030 ish. Even managed to go through San Marino, thats another country visited.
All that planning what a waste of time, the Superfast ferry doesn’t run to Igoumenitsa today so I am on ANEK lines sailing at 16:00...5 hours time. Whilst waiting chat to a German biker and a British FJR rider from London. Loading was at 16:00 and was like a GP start. My bike is tied with rope to overhead pipes in the lower deck god knows what I will find tomorrow.
So right now we are sailing to Greece, I have an aircraft style seat which looks great in the brochure but it doesn’t show all the others who are laid out on the floor wherever there is a space. We don’t arrive until 8am what a night I’m going to have. Its cost me 6 Euros to have an hour on the internet but I am nicking their electricity.
Going to have something to eat now got a splitting headache from being out in the sun all day, its really really hot.
SANY0093c.jpg
Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Day 3 and 4
Not a good night, ended up sleeping on the floor and the Greek Olympic snoring champion was in the seating lounge. Just wanted to stuff a pillow down this throat about 2 am so instead moved to another place and managed to about 3 hours sleep and of course lost another hour to the time difference.
Met up with a couple on a FJR1300 touring Europe who live in London and spent the evening discussing all topics including BMWs, Metallica and the original Genesis line up. Really nice couple.
Awoke to the Greek/Albania coastline out of the window. My left eye felt a bit sore yesterday and now it is nearly closed, something has bit it. I look like I’ve been in a punch up. So I had a morning coffee and a napkin of ice. Also found out my bike had not been tied down throughout the voyage thank god it didn’t fall over.
Arrived in Igoumenstia at 08.30 offloading is the same as loading...drivers start your engines.
Decided to follow the scenic route to Athens after the mammoth days this week and take two days. The roads here are excellent and can only recommend them I spent all morning on quiet twisty roads we bikers can only dream of with scenery to match. Stopped at a non wifi Macdonald’s for lunch and discovered I was only 80 miles from Athens. So I made the decision to go for the ferry as I had just about enough time (sort of).
I then entered Athens what a nightmare the roads are, I can genuinely say I was not comfortable with being in this traffic. The worst thing is the little mopeds who zip everywhere. I got stuck in the middle of a crossroads with one of the mopeds as the lights changed and the traffic zipped either side of us leaving us stranded, how I made it into the Port of Piraeus I never know. The signs took us all through the back streets of Athens and it’s a huge city if I had missed a sign I would still driving around next week. It’s over 30 degrees here as well and sat in the traffic I had visions of the bottom hose coming off (F800GS manufacturer fault) but I’m glad to say all is well with the bumble bee.
Made the Ferry with about 30 mins to spare. Another ANEK lines boat so another 6 Euros on the internet and an hour’s chat with the kids on MSN.
We arrive at Chois at 2am then have to catch another ferry at 8am to mainland Turkey. Looking forward to the Turkish border controls. I have managed to find a shower on the boat first one since Italy. Best change those socks tomorrow. Hopefully with fellow Gser Andy007’s help I can wash them in Bulgaria.
Greece is a great country and excellent for bikes. The people I have met have been very friendly. A Greek Honda rider stopped to see if I was ok when I had stopped in the middle of nowhere to take a picture. Good day (apart from Athens, didn’t see the acropolis too busy watching for those pesky mopeds), Total miles 240
Right off to dinner let’s see what tomorrow brings. The next update should from the hotel in Istanbul.
See ya
Geoff AKA Ghostrider
Not a good night, ended up sleeping on the floor and the Greek Olympic snoring champion was in the seating lounge. Just wanted to stuff a pillow down this throat about 2 am so instead moved to another place and managed to about 3 hours sleep and of course lost another hour to the time difference.
Met up with a couple on a FJR1300 touring Europe who live in London and spent the evening discussing all topics including BMWs, Metallica and the original Genesis line up. Really nice couple.
Awoke to the Greek/Albania coastline out of the window. My left eye felt a bit sore yesterday and now it is nearly closed, something has bit it. I look like I’ve been in a punch up. So I had a morning coffee and a napkin of ice. Also found out my bike had not been tied down throughout the voyage thank god it didn’t fall over.
Arrived in Igoumenstia at 08.30 offloading is the same as loading...drivers start your engines.
Decided to follow the scenic route to Athens after the mammoth days this week and take two days. The roads here are excellent and can only recommend them I spent all morning on quiet twisty roads we bikers can only dream of with scenery to match. Stopped at a non wifi Macdonald’s for lunch and discovered I was only 80 miles from Athens. So I made the decision to go for the ferry as I had just about enough time (sort of).
I then entered Athens what a nightmare the roads are, I can genuinely say I was not comfortable with being in this traffic. The worst thing is the little mopeds who zip everywhere. I got stuck in the middle of a crossroads with one of the mopeds as the lights changed and the traffic zipped either side of us leaving us stranded, how I made it into the Port of Piraeus I never know. The signs took us all through the back streets of Athens and it’s a huge city if I had missed a sign I would still driving around next week. It’s over 30 degrees here as well and sat in the traffic I had visions of the bottom hose coming off (F800GS manufacturer fault) but I’m glad to say all is well with the bumble bee.
Made the Ferry with about 30 mins to spare. Another ANEK lines boat so another 6 Euros on the internet and an hour’s chat with the kids on MSN.
We arrive at Chois at 2am then have to catch another ferry at 8am to mainland Turkey. Looking forward to the Turkish border controls. I have managed to find a shower on the boat first one since Italy. Best change those socks tomorrow. Hopefully with fellow Gser Andy007’s help I can wash them in Bulgaria.
Greece is a great country and excellent for bikes. The people I have met have been very friendly. A Greek Honda rider stopped to see if I was ok when I had stopped in the middle of nowhere to take a picture. Good day (apart from Athens, didn’t see the acropolis too busy watching for those pesky mopeds), Total miles 240
Right off to dinner let’s see what tomorrow brings. The next update should from the hotel in Istanbul.
See ya
Geoff AKA Ghostrider
Day 5
Arrived in Chois at 0320 hours and most of the entire boat disembarked. I left the harbour area and went a mile down the road and found an old boat yard. I parked the bike behind an old car and dug out the bivy bag . Slept till about 0630. Got up made coffee and went down to the harbour. Booked a ticket on Erturk Lines to Cesme. Went through exit controls for the EU and boarded the boat. Its only small and had only enough room for about 4 cars. Only vehicle today was the Beemer.
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Crossing took about 50 minutes and then managed to drop the bike against the of the ship getting it off the centre stand. No damage.
A man approached me on the boat introduced himself as a customs agent and showed where to park and get my passport inspected. I duly did as I was told, I was not allowed pass the Turkish Police ‘no visa’; the agent ran off and came back with a woman who took my passport and £10 and returned a few minutes later with the visa. This time I was allowed to walk the 3 feet to the custom desk. That’s me in now the Beemer. ‘ Papers for the bike and insurance’ was the next question, ‘no insurance’ I said. The agent duly got on the phone and within 10 minutes another man arrived took the log book and passport ‘ he will get insurance for you’. In due course he came back with 3 months insurance, I took a breath ‘how much’ the agent looked rather sheepishly ‘5 Euros’, inwardly I was jumping for joy, outwardly I said ‘ok’ and tried not to smile. The agent then ran off with all the papers from room to room and then disappeared. Sometime later a Policeman walked up to me with my papers and said ‘yours Bmw’, ‘yes’ I said. Dreading the worse he said ‘You go, exit’. That was it done and I rode off handing over the exit slip at the gate. It took about 45 minutes in total and the Turkish officials were polite and courteous all the time. I never saw the agent again to thank him. (Thanks to Turkish Customs). The officials do seem to run around a lot stamping papers and drinking tea.
So off I went towards Izmir, the plan to have a light day and stop at Burgas and travel into Instanbul tomorrow. Turkey is great the views are awesome and the country is well worth a visit. Izmir is such a huge city and with all the Mosques standing above the other buildings it’s a sight to see. So a couple of hours later in the middle of nowhere I stopped for fuel (which is about £1 a litre). The garage attendant filled the bike up and I started to have some water and bought a packet of biscuits. He then offered me tea which I politely refused but then a few minutes later brought tea and offered me a seat. So we had tea and talked about bikes and my travels ( me in English him in Turkish). I took his photo with my bike which he was very chuffed about. The Beemer in this country really does turn heads.
SANY0172c.jpg
About another hour later 50 miles from Burgas the bike felt a bit wobbly, the roads are bad in places so put it down to that, but was not happy thought the luggage was loose to stopped at a petrol station 2km outside Sedir. To my horror the tyre was nearly flat; I had planned for this bought a puncture kit and levers. The garage attendants came over and pumped up the tyre. The outside of the tyre was red hot, another 30 degree+ day today. The directed me to a garage 2 km back down the road, I found this but he couldn’t help so he jumped on his moped and indicated me to follow him. We went through all the back alleys and unmade road, it resembled Gaza in palces and then pulled up outside the local motorbike shop. The owner was repairing a Minsk outside the front. The problem was explained and my bike was pushed into his workshop and the wheel removed. His assistant ran off with the wheel to bubble test it. Meanwhile the bike and me were starting to draw a crowd. People were starting to ask questions and practice their English. Tea was produced from a shop across the road. Photos were taken by me and them and a 15 year old girl tried to translate as I think she was the only person around who had any knowledge of English.
SANY0173c.jpg
No puncture was found, I think I just cooked the tyre on the hot road. This cost me 20 TL (about 8 quid). I then carried on to Burgas and decided not to go into the city and to find either a campsite or hotel on the main road. I found a hotel about 90 from Istanbul, 3 star 65 TL per night. Had two showers changed clothes and feel great. Went to a Turkish restaurant next door the place was empty and the lady owner thought she had seen a ghost I when I appeared at the door in my Metallica T-shirt. I tried to explain I was hungry and was staying next door. She ran off and came back with the receptionist from the hotel who translated. I had mantia (pasta and yogurt dish) with bread followed by cake and tea. Cost 6 TL (3 quid). Opposite the hotel is a Mosque and during the meal the call for prayer was given; it was at that moment sat in the restaurant in a place I have never been ever and with the problems of the day and acts of kindness given to me I felt like was on an adventure.
SANY0180c.jpg
Anyway went back to the hotel caught up with home via MSN and had a sound night’s sleep.
Catch up tomorrow with another thrilling adventure by the Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Arrived in Chois at 0320 hours and most of the entire boat disembarked. I left the harbour area and went a mile down the road and found an old boat yard. I parked the bike behind an old car and dug out the bivy bag . Slept till about 0630. Got up made coffee and went down to the harbour. Booked a ticket on Erturk Lines to Cesme. Went through exit controls for the EU and boarded the boat. Its only small and had only enough room for about 4 cars. Only vehicle today was the Beemer.
SANY0166c.jpg
Crossing took about 50 minutes and then managed to drop the bike against the of the ship getting it off the centre stand. No damage.
A man approached me on the boat introduced himself as a customs agent and showed where to park and get my passport inspected. I duly did as I was told, I was not allowed pass the Turkish Police ‘no visa’; the agent ran off and came back with a woman who took my passport and £10 and returned a few minutes later with the visa. This time I was allowed to walk the 3 feet to the custom desk. That’s me in now the Beemer. ‘ Papers for the bike and insurance’ was the next question, ‘no insurance’ I said. The agent duly got on the phone and within 10 minutes another man arrived took the log book and passport ‘ he will get insurance for you’. In due course he came back with 3 months insurance, I took a breath ‘how much’ the agent looked rather sheepishly ‘5 Euros’, inwardly I was jumping for joy, outwardly I said ‘ok’ and tried not to smile. The agent then ran off with all the papers from room to room and then disappeared. Sometime later a Policeman walked up to me with my papers and said ‘yours Bmw’, ‘yes’ I said. Dreading the worse he said ‘You go, exit’. That was it done and I rode off handing over the exit slip at the gate. It took about 45 minutes in total and the Turkish officials were polite and courteous all the time. I never saw the agent again to thank him. (Thanks to Turkish Customs). The officials do seem to run around a lot stamping papers and drinking tea.
So off I went towards Izmir, the plan to have a light day and stop at Burgas and travel into Instanbul tomorrow. Turkey is great the views are awesome and the country is well worth a visit. Izmir is such a huge city and with all the Mosques standing above the other buildings it’s a sight to see. So a couple of hours later in the middle of nowhere I stopped for fuel (which is about £1 a litre). The garage attendant filled the bike up and I started to have some water and bought a packet of biscuits. He then offered me tea which I politely refused but then a few minutes later brought tea and offered me a seat. So we had tea and talked about bikes and my travels ( me in English him in Turkish). I took his photo with my bike which he was very chuffed about. The Beemer in this country really does turn heads.
SANY0172c.jpg
About another hour later 50 miles from Burgas the bike felt a bit wobbly, the roads are bad in places so put it down to that, but was not happy thought the luggage was loose to stopped at a petrol station 2km outside Sedir. To my horror the tyre was nearly flat; I had planned for this bought a puncture kit and levers. The garage attendants came over and pumped up the tyre. The outside of the tyre was red hot, another 30 degree+ day today. The directed me to a garage 2 km back down the road, I found this but he couldn’t help so he jumped on his moped and indicated me to follow him. We went through all the back alleys and unmade road, it resembled Gaza in palces and then pulled up outside the local motorbike shop. The owner was repairing a Minsk outside the front. The problem was explained and my bike was pushed into his workshop and the wheel removed. His assistant ran off with the wheel to bubble test it. Meanwhile the bike and me were starting to draw a crowd. People were starting to ask questions and practice their English. Tea was produced from a shop across the road. Photos were taken by me and them and a 15 year old girl tried to translate as I think she was the only person around who had any knowledge of English.
SANY0173c.jpg
No puncture was found, I think I just cooked the tyre on the hot road. This cost me 20 TL (about 8 quid). I then carried on to Burgas and decided not to go into the city and to find either a campsite or hotel on the main road. I found a hotel about 90 from Istanbul, 3 star 65 TL per night. Had two showers changed clothes and feel great. Went to a Turkish restaurant next door the place was empty and the lady owner thought she had seen a ghost I when I appeared at the door in my Metallica T-shirt. I tried to explain I was hungry and was staying next door. She ran off and came back with the receptionist from the hotel who translated. I had mantia (pasta and yogurt dish) with bread followed by cake and tea. Cost 6 TL (3 quid). Opposite the hotel is a Mosque and during the meal the call for prayer was given; it was at that moment sat in the restaurant in a place I have never been ever and with the problems of the day and acts of kindness given to me I felt like was on an adventure.
SANY0180c.jpg
Anyway went back to the hotel caught up with home via MSN and had a sound night’s sleep.
Catch up tomorrow with another thrilling adventure by the Ghostrider (aka Geoff)
Woke up this morning in a bed, what a luxury; had a shower, what a luxury; had breakfast, what a luxury, get the picture. Paid the bill in the hotel and got 5 TL off the price as the manager didn’t have enough change. Sorted out the blog (too knackered last night) packed the bike and rolled off towards Istanbul. Stopped 2km down the road to fuel and the attendant and his mate were all over the beemer, asking this and that, invited me for tea but I politely refused.
Things were going very smoothly, traffic was lighter than yesterday, I got pulled over by the Turkish traffic cops in a checkpoint. I was speeding (again) exceeding the 50 km speed limit?? On a dual carriageway road. They must have seen the nose of the bike dive towards the ground. I didn’t see a radar gun but I have been warned about the Police here. Anyway they walked around the bike um’ed and arr’ed and said ‘Thank you, you may go’, a polite ‘Thank you’ from me and I legged it at 50km for about 2 km then back to the normal traffic flow speed.
The roads heading towards Istanbul in places are awful and could be considered off-roading. I took it easy today, plenty of stops to make sure the rear tyre did not get too hot again. All seems ok at this point, weather is 30 degrees + again. Took the toll motorway for the last stage of the ride in Asia and when I reached the toll plaza prior to the bridge crossing a workman waved me through an empty booth, no need to ask twice I was through it like a tramp on a kipper.
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Passed the Istanbul Park race track and for a moment though maybe I could see the race, might have done if it had been MotoGP. Eventually crossed the Bosphorus Bridge and started looking for a way into the city, which is easier said than done.
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Cut a long story short I got well lost and ended up at an industrial centre for Ataturk airport. I asked a passerby who didn’t speak English for directions he phoned his daughter who did and we had a three way conversation down a mobile. His directions gave me enough to be heading into right area. Whilst on a dual carriage a moped rider and girlfriend drew up alongside and shouted me a welcome to Istanbul. They saw I was struggling and when I shouted back ‘Sultanamet’ follow us came the reply. Now they are on a moped and I am on the beemer with boxes but I did a pretty good job keeping up, hard shoulder et al. They got me to a position where I could see the Blue Mosque and signs showing its direction. Off I went alone after lots of hand shaking. Now I followed the signs until I was sure I was lost again and I came across a gun laden cop who I asked for further directions without making him jump. I was just round the corner and hey presto there was the road but...it was across the tram tracks and the wrong end of a one way street. One thing I have learnt since being in Turkey is that the rules of the road are, there are no rules (just like fight club). So across the tracks I went and luck would have it a Transit van(they can go anywhere you know) went up the one way street the wrong way, I followed in his wake and pulled up outside my hotel. Job done only took at 90 minutes since crossing the bridge (About 2 miles as the crow flies).
Parking had been arranged for me at no extra cost in a secure car park behind the hotel. Knackered and sweat dripping I checked in to the hotel. The hotel room is basic and small (good job I wasn’t coming here for a cat swinging contest) but it’s better than a boatyard in the dark.
Showered finished locking up the bike and off to explore. I am only a few minutes away from the Blue Mosque so of I went to see it and recce the area for tomorrow’s day off. I had taken some leaflets and sat in the park opposite the Mosque reading them. Next to me was an elderly Turkish man. He leant over and stated the price for the Turkish bath was a reasonable price. That sparked the conversation, he had a reasonable grasp of English certainly better than my Turkish. Turned out his name was Fedher and was Cartographer (map maker). We talked about all sorts of topics from politics, crime, F1, tourism, visas, families, football, bikes, travel etc. We must have sat there for over an hour chatting. I said I was going for dinner and offered to show where the best Turkish restaurants were. We walked and talked for another 15 minutes. He took me to a restaurant who served me a Turkish starter selection and a Turkish Grill selection.
RTB 154c.jpg
Fedher refused to even stay and have tea with me. He told the restaurant owner to look after me. The meal was great and I got to sample numerous dishes and had tea (Twice) all for 36 TL (£15).
One thing Fedher did say before leaving was why visitors to his country never speak to the people who live there. He was right, I had spoken to him and learnt lots about his country and culture and taken to a great restaurant. So my advice when travelling is talk to the locals.
Anyway after dinner went and found the Turkish Bath house to enquire about times, first thing tomorrow I’m booked in for a bath and a massage. Passed an English pub on the way back, England were beating Kazakhstan four nil with four minutes to go, didn’t even stop for a beer.
Checked on the bike, all’s well and back inside for good night’s sleep and blog update. Managed to rip the only pair of trouser I brought with me, now I will have to manage in shorts. As you may have noticed I have got right into the blog thing, hope you like it, I enjoy writing it. Thanks for all the emails from family and friends, believe me it cheers up my day.
Looking forward to my day off tomorrow sightseeing.
Ghostrider aka Geoff
Things were going very smoothly, traffic was lighter than yesterday, I got pulled over by the Turkish traffic cops in a checkpoint. I was speeding (again) exceeding the 50 km speed limit?? On a dual carriageway road. They must have seen the nose of the bike dive towards the ground. I didn’t see a radar gun but I have been warned about the Police here. Anyway they walked around the bike um’ed and arr’ed and said ‘Thank you, you may go’, a polite ‘Thank you’ from me and I legged it at 50km for about 2 km then back to the normal traffic flow speed.
The roads heading towards Istanbul in places are awful and could be considered off-roading. I took it easy today, plenty of stops to make sure the rear tyre did not get too hot again. All seems ok at this point, weather is 30 degrees + again. Took the toll motorway for the last stage of the ride in Asia and when I reached the toll plaza prior to the bridge crossing a workman waved me through an empty booth, no need to ask twice I was through it like a tramp on a kipper.
RTB 151c.jpg
Passed the Istanbul Park race track and for a moment though maybe I could see the race, might have done if it had been MotoGP. Eventually crossed the Bosphorus Bridge and started looking for a way into the city, which is easier said than done.
RTB 152c.jpg
Cut a long story short I got well lost and ended up at an industrial centre for Ataturk airport. I asked a passerby who didn’t speak English for directions he phoned his daughter who did and we had a three way conversation down a mobile. His directions gave me enough to be heading into right area. Whilst on a dual carriage a moped rider and girlfriend drew up alongside and shouted me a welcome to Istanbul. They saw I was struggling and when I shouted back ‘Sultanamet’ follow us came the reply. Now they are on a moped and I am on the beemer with boxes but I did a pretty good job keeping up, hard shoulder et al. They got me to a position where I could see the Blue Mosque and signs showing its direction. Off I went alone after lots of hand shaking. Now I followed the signs until I was sure I was lost again and I came across a gun laden cop who I asked for further directions without making him jump. I was just round the corner and hey presto there was the road but...it was across the tram tracks and the wrong end of a one way street. One thing I have learnt since being in Turkey is that the rules of the road are, there are no rules (just like fight club). So across the tracks I went and luck would have it a Transit van(they can go anywhere you know) went up the one way street the wrong way, I followed in his wake and pulled up outside my hotel. Job done only took at 90 minutes since crossing the bridge (About 2 miles as the crow flies).
Parking had been arranged for me at no extra cost in a secure car park behind the hotel. Knackered and sweat dripping I checked in to the hotel. The hotel room is basic and small (good job I wasn’t coming here for a cat swinging contest) but it’s better than a boatyard in the dark.
Showered finished locking up the bike and off to explore. I am only a few minutes away from the Blue Mosque so of I went to see it and recce the area for tomorrow’s day off. I had taken some leaflets and sat in the park opposite the Mosque reading them. Next to me was an elderly Turkish man. He leant over and stated the price for the Turkish bath was a reasonable price. That sparked the conversation, he had a reasonable grasp of English certainly better than my Turkish. Turned out his name was Fedher and was Cartographer (map maker). We talked about all sorts of topics from politics, crime, F1, tourism, visas, families, football, bikes, travel etc. We must have sat there for over an hour chatting. I said I was going for dinner and offered to show where the best Turkish restaurants were. We walked and talked for another 15 minutes. He took me to a restaurant who served me a Turkish starter selection and a Turkish Grill selection.
RTB 154c.jpg
Fedher refused to even stay and have tea with me. He told the restaurant owner to look after me. The meal was great and I got to sample numerous dishes and had tea (Twice) all for 36 TL (£15).
One thing Fedher did say before leaving was why visitors to his country never speak to the people who live there. He was right, I had spoken to him and learnt lots about his country and culture and taken to a great restaurant. So my advice when travelling is talk to the locals.
Anyway after dinner went and found the Turkish Bath house to enquire about times, first thing tomorrow I’m booked in for a bath and a massage. Passed an English pub on the way back, England were beating Kazakhstan four nil with four minutes to go, didn’t even stop for a beer.
Checked on the bike, all’s well and back inside for good night’s sleep and blog update. Managed to rip the only pair of trouser I brought with me, now I will have to manage in shorts. As you may have noticed I have got right into the blog thing, hope you like it, I enjoy writing it. Thanks for all the emails from family and friends, believe me it cheers up my day.
Looking forward to my day off tomorrow sightseeing.
Ghostrider aka Geoff
Hi all
Woke up early again no air conditioning in this room so it was stifling hot all ready. Showered and went to the roof terrace for breakfast. It’s not that posh believe me. Checked on the bike, its fine.
At 9am walked into the Sultanamet district and went to the Turkish bath house I had seen yesterday. Paid my 40TL and stripped off (calm down girls), I was given what looked like half a tablecloth my Gran would have and was shown in to the bath house. It was incredibly hot and was soon stood in a puddle of sweat. About 20 minutes later in came the Turkish male attendant, basically the Turkish bath consisted of a scrub with a car mitt then a soaping down and being pummelled/massaged by the attendant. He tweaked my neck and back and slapped me a few times. After a rinsing I was told to lie on the hot floor. Another guy was then subject to the same treatment. It sounds bad but was actually very good and I recommend anybody who is coming here to experience one. The other guy eventually ended up on the floor next to me. I said to him loudly (as you do) ‘Do you speak English?’ ‘Yes’ he replied in a British upper crust accent. Turns out he’s on holiday and lives in Hastings 30 miles from me. So we had a good old chin wag about the pros and cons of travelling alone. Sometime later I left and got dressed, had tea and went on my merry way feeling fully refreshed.
Next order of the day was a visit to the Ayasofya or Hagia Sophia Museum. It cost 20 TL to enter and me and an American shared the cost of a personal guide. Han as he wanted to be called (didn’t get my Han Solo joke, the American did) showed us around the museum and explained how, what, who etc. The building started as a church ended up a Mosque and is now museum. It was very interesting.
SANY0293c.jpg
Next was the Sultan Ahmet Mosque or more commonly known as the Blue Mosque but due to it being prayer time and the call to prayer was sounded as I arrived it was closed for an hour. I sat outside and watched the comings and goings. A guy sat next me and introduced himself; he was from New Zealand on a public transport (trains, buses, boats) Europe trip with his wife. We had a natter and his wife soon joined us and were swapping stories of exotic travels. A very nice couple. Later after I had been back to the hotel for new camera batteries and SD card I returned bumping into the New Zealanders who had just finished in the Mosque. I went in removed my shoes and had a good look around. Some people were still conducting their prayers with about 1000 onlookers. Again both Mosques are well worth a visit if your here. The hawkers and sellers are very active around all these sites and we were warned by the tour guide that it’s all Chinese made crap rather than authentic Turkish carpets and nic naks.
Following this went and walked my route to sea and the main road out of Istanbul (the one I should have come in on). I passed an English style pub on the way and realised the F1GP was on so went back to the hotel and watched it in Turkish. Funny enough the closest I’ve been to a real GP.
Following Jenson Button’s convincing win I went and repacked the bike, checked the oil and prepared my kit for an 8am getaway when the secure car park opens. I don’t want to be caught up in the Istanbul rush hour in the morning. Had tea which consisted of a plate of mixed salad and doner chicken with a BEER; the first beer of RTB 09.
Just catching up with emails
and the blog then off to bed for an early night.
Leaving for Bulgaria tomorrow and an overnighter at Sunny Beach (Thanks ANDY007)
Will update whenever I can
Ghostrider aka Geoff
Woke up early again no air conditioning in this room so it was stifling hot all ready. Showered and went to the roof terrace for breakfast. It’s not that posh believe me. Checked on the bike, its fine.
At 9am walked into the Sultanamet district and went to the Turkish bath house I had seen yesterday. Paid my 40TL and stripped off (calm down girls), I was given what looked like half a tablecloth my Gran would have and was shown in to the bath house. It was incredibly hot and was soon stood in a puddle of sweat. About 20 minutes later in came the Turkish male attendant, basically the Turkish bath consisted of a scrub with a car mitt then a soaping down and being pummelled/massaged by the attendant. He tweaked my neck and back and slapped me a few times. After a rinsing I was told to lie on the hot floor. Another guy was then subject to the same treatment. It sounds bad but was actually very good and I recommend anybody who is coming here to experience one. The other guy eventually ended up on the floor next to me. I said to him loudly (as you do) ‘Do you speak English?’ ‘Yes’ he replied in a British upper crust accent. Turns out he’s on holiday and lives in Hastings 30 miles from me. So we had a good old chin wag about the pros and cons of travelling alone. Sometime later I left and got dressed, had tea and went on my merry way feeling fully refreshed.
Next order of the day was a visit to the Ayasofya or Hagia Sophia Museum. It cost 20 TL to enter and me and an American shared the cost of a personal guide. Han as he wanted to be called (didn’t get my Han Solo joke, the American did) showed us around the museum and explained how, what, who etc. The building started as a church ended up a Mosque and is now museum. It was very interesting.
SANY0293c.jpg
Next was the Sultan Ahmet Mosque or more commonly known as the Blue Mosque but due to it being prayer time and the call to prayer was sounded as I arrived it was closed for an hour. I sat outside and watched the comings and goings. A guy sat next me and introduced himself; he was from New Zealand on a public transport (trains, buses, boats) Europe trip with his wife. We had a natter and his wife soon joined us and were swapping stories of exotic travels. A very nice couple. Later after I had been back to the hotel for new camera batteries and SD card I returned bumping into the New Zealanders who had just finished in the Mosque. I went in removed my shoes and had a good look around. Some people were still conducting their prayers with about 1000 onlookers. Again both Mosques are well worth a visit if your here. The hawkers and sellers are very active around all these sites and we were warned by the tour guide that it’s all Chinese made crap rather than authentic Turkish carpets and nic naks.
Following this went and walked my route to sea and the main road out of Istanbul (the one I should have come in on). I passed an English style pub on the way and realised the F1GP was on so went back to the hotel and watched it in Turkish. Funny enough the closest I’ve been to a real GP.
Following Jenson Button’s convincing win I went and repacked the bike, checked the oil and prepared my kit for an 8am getaway when the secure car park opens. I don’t want to be caught up in the Istanbul rush hour in the morning. Had tea which consisted of a plate of mixed salad and doner chicken with a BEER; the first beer of RTB 09.
Just catching up with emails
and the blog then off to bed for an early night.Leaving for Bulgaria tomorrow
and an overnighter at Sunny Beach (Thanks ANDY007)Will update whenever I can
Ghostrider aka Geoff
Day 8
Set the alarm for any early start, want to be out before the Istanbul rush hour. Had breakfast and checked out, packed most of the bike yesterday so only took a few minutes to put my rucksack on the bike. I was gone by 0745 hours. The checking out of my route paid dividends and was quickly on the main road following the sea. Got onto the motorway and was soon heading through the last suburbs of Istanbul without getting lost once (that’s a first).
Used the toll motorway all the way north to my turn off and headed towards Kirklareli and the border with Bulgaria. The road from the last town is amazing riding, shame the surface is not 100% but was fun anyway. Approached the Turkish border and had to show my log book to enter the border control area. Then into passport control. The Turkish policeman eyed my passport and eventually stamped it out but beckoned me over to some search benches. I wondered what on earth was going to happen here. The policeman explained he was studying English and wanted to talk to me (what a relief) and he practiced his English with all sorts of irrelevant and stupid questions. He was actually a nice guy and went on to tell me his favourite band was Metallica after spotting my tour t-shirt. The result was he walked me through the remaining two Customs offices to have my passport stamped (bike and luggage), nobody at any time checked to see if the bike I was talking out matched my documents!
Then onto the Bulgarian controls and good news I’m back in Europe. Shame nobody informed the border guards of this. The first window took my log book and passport and gave me back both with a USB memory stick?? The second place was Customs who took the memory stick and documents and a few minutes later sent me on. I saw a sign displaying vignette prices no mention of motorbikes. Went on to the next window, or so I thought and the woman sent me back saying ‘taxes, taxes’. So I went back but unbeknown to me went back to the exiting the EU side where I spoke to the guards the older one took my passport and came back a few minutes later with a right chin on. He said ‘you leave or come’, I explained that I’ve been sent back ‘you leave and don’t come back he shouted’ and pointed back where I had come from. I left and rode around again and this time noticed a man in another window, ‘taxes’ I said and gave him the memory stick, ‘how much’ I said and he gave me back the stick and said ’no pay moto’, So I had been sent back to pay for taxes that were not required bureaucracy at its best. So back to the window who sent me back in the first place she took the stick and then gave it me back I then moved forward to the last window a 6ft away who just took the stick away. I was in so buggered off into Bulgaria. I stopped 4km from the border and took the non-motorway route towards Burgas.
SANY0318c.jpg
I rode for the next hour or so in a time warp (1950s Soviet Union). The houses and roads were in poor condition, horse and carts and groups of men sat in the shade on the roadside. Vintage Russian lorries and jeeps were everywhere. As I approached Burgas that all changed and I saw the new EU modern side of Bulgaria. I was getting worried I had no Bulgarian cash and the petrol stations looked like they didn’t have electricity let alone credit card payment systems. I went through numerous police checkpoints both manned and unmanned. Occasionally a top of the range Mercedes or BMW would come the other way intermingled with the carts and lorries.
Had a bit of an experience getting on the dual carriageway to Burgas due to lack of road signs went head-on with van and ended up going onto the wrong carriageway. Soon all was sorted and I headed for Sveti Vlas on the Black Sea coast which is one of the tourist hotspots. Very Spanish type holiday resort. Although I knew I was in the right place a British registered Range Rover came up behind me we had a quick conversation at the lights and he confirmed my choice of turn (First British registered car I seen for a few days).
Found the apartment I was going to stay in very easily and set to work washing my socks and smalls (sorry Andy) and sorting out, reorganising my panniers.
SANY0337c.jpg
The apartment is brilliant with amazing views over the Black Sea. Although I haven’t used them it has loads of children’s facilities, pool and bar. The weather today was a staggering 32 degrees when I crossed the border.
So this brings me up to date on the blog as I sit here looking out over the Black Sea, Beemer safe in the car park, loads of beer in the fridge. Today has been a good day and I was glad to be back in the saddle. I have just spoken to my Romanian friend Dan who I met at the BMW off Road School he is going to meet me tomorrow at the Bulgarian/Romanian border and we will drive in Bucharest together.
Tomorrows another day
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
P.S. Andy007 rents out his apartment please PM him for details – it’s a great place and has my recommendation.
Set the alarm for any early start, want to be out before the Istanbul rush hour. Had breakfast and checked out, packed most of the bike yesterday so only took a few minutes to put my rucksack on the bike. I was gone by 0745 hours. The checking out of my route paid dividends and was quickly on the main road following the sea. Got onto the motorway and was soon heading through the last suburbs of Istanbul without getting lost once (that’s a first).
Used the toll motorway all the way north to my turn off and headed towards Kirklareli and the border with Bulgaria. The road from the last town is amazing riding, shame the surface is not 100% but was fun anyway. Approached the Turkish border and had to show my log book to enter the border control area. Then into passport control. The Turkish policeman eyed my passport and eventually stamped it out but beckoned me over to some search benches. I wondered what on earth was going to happen here. The policeman explained he was studying English and wanted to talk to me (what a relief) and he practiced his English with all sorts of irrelevant and stupid questions. He was actually a nice guy and went on to tell me his favourite band was Metallica after spotting my tour t-shirt. The result was he walked me through the remaining two Customs offices to have my passport stamped (bike and luggage), nobody at any time checked to see if the bike I was talking out matched my documents!
Then onto the Bulgarian controls and good news I’m back in Europe. Shame nobody informed the border guards of this. The first window took my log book and passport and gave me back both with a USB memory stick?? The second place was Customs who took the memory stick and documents and a few minutes later sent me on. I saw a sign displaying vignette prices no mention of motorbikes. Went on to the next window, or so I thought and the woman sent me back saying ‘taxes, taxes’. So I went back but unbeknown to me went back to the exiting the EU side where I spoke to the guards the older one took my passport and came back a few minutes later with a right chin on. He said ‘you leave or come’, I explained that I’ve been sent back ‘you leave and don’t come back he shouted’ and pointed back where I had come from. I left and rode around again and this time noticed a man in another window, ‘taxes’ I said and gave him the memory stick, ‘how much’ I said and he gave me back the stick and said ’no pay moto’, So I had been sent back to pay for taxes that were not required bureaucracy at its best. So back to the window who sent me back in the first place she took the stick and then gave it me back I then moved forward to the last window a 6ft away who just took the stick away. I was in so buggered off into Bulgaria. I stopped 4km from the border and took the non-motorway route towards Burgas.
SANY0318c.jpg
I rode for the next hour or so in a time warp (1950s Soviet Union). The houses and roads were in poor condition, horse and carts and groups of men sat in the shade on the roadside. Vintage Russian lorries and jeeps were everywhere. As I approached Burgas that all changed and I saw the new EU modern side of Bulgaria. I was getting worried I had no Bulgarian cash and the petrol stations looked like they didn’t have electricity let alone credit card payment systems. I went through numerous police checkpoints both manned and unmanned. Occasionally a top of the range Mercedes or BMW would come the other way intermingled with the carts and lorries.
Had a bit of an experience getting on the dual carriageway to Burgas due to lack of road signs went head-on with van and ended up going onto the wrong carriageway. Soon all was sorted and I headed for Sveti Vlas on the Black Sea coast which is one of the tourist hotspots. Very Spanish type holiday resort. Although I knew I was in the right place a British registered Range Rover came up behind me we had a quick conversation at the lights and he confirmed my choice of turn (First British registered car I seen for a few days).
Found the apartment I was going to stay in very easily and set to work washing my socks and smalls (sorry Andy) and sorting out, reorganising my panniers.
SANY0337c.jpg
The apartment is brilliant with amazing views over the Black Sea. Although I haven’t used them it has loads of children’s facilities, pool and bar. The weather today was a staggering 32 degrees when I crossed the border.
So this brings me up to date on the blog as I sit here looking out over the Black Sea, Beemer safe in the car park, loads of beer in the fridge. Today has been a good day and I was glad to be back in the saddle. I have just spoken to my Romanian friend Dan who I met at the BMW off Road School he is going to meet me tomorrow at the Bulgarian/Romanian border and we will drive in Bucharest together.
Tomorrows another day
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
P.S. Andy007 rents out his apartment please PM him for details – it’s a great place and has my recommendation.
Day 9
Left the Black Sea resort of Sveti Vlas at 10am and made my way across Bulgaria toward the crossing to Romania at Giurgiu/Russe. The ride was great, good roads and very little traffic to hinder my progress. In some places the road surface was not up to scratch, so others beware. The only issue was the Traffic Police who are everywhere and set up checkpoints. Beware those who go to Bulgaria WATCH YOUR SPEED. Passed a number of scrub fires on the roadsides most were out of control and heading for crop fields, other the locals were desperately trying to stamp them out. I arrived at the Romanian border at 2pm and was waved though all the Bulgarian controls?? No data sticks this time and a quick check of my passport on the Romanian side but the copper was more interested in the bike than the passport. Drove into Romania and found my friend Dan waiting at the petrol station. Temperature at the border 33.5 degrees. So after our hellos and a refuel we headed for Bucharest. Dan was riding his 1200GS, I met Dan last year at the off road school in Wales and we have kept in touch via email ever since. Dan is going to compete in the Paris-Dakar Heroes rally next year.
The traffic going into the city was a nightmare and I found the city actually busier that Istanbul. Dan took me on a tour of the city ending up at the Parliament building which is massive and very impressive. It was built by Ceausescu as a palace with a boulevard to match across the centre of the city.
SANY0350c.jpg
We ended up at an apartment Dan has arranged for me in a Soviet style block close to the city centre. It was comfortable and perfect for my short overnight stay.
Dan went off to sort out some work leaving me to sort myself out, blog and email sorted. At 7pm Dan collected me and we went on another tour of the city on bikes and ended up a restaurant in the hippest part of town. Dan’s 1200GS and my 800GS fitted in perfectly and were parked just outside so we could watch the bikes. We had a lovely meal and talked about the Dakar, Bikes, BMWs etc. It was a great evening. Another tour of the city and we ended up at Dan’s work where we stashed the bikes away for the night and he dropped me off in his car. On the trip around the city I had the fright of my life as we came down a dual carriageway Dan in the middle lane and me in the slow lane the highway split causing us to go in two different directions. I had no idea where the flat was or Dan’s work, if we lost each other I was up shit creek so to speak. Lots of blasting the horn and Dan realised I was in trouble and guided me to a break in the wall which allowed me back to his side. I paid much attention after this episode.
This part is for the guys only, sorry Mrs Ghostrider - The place we went for dinner was amazing. The restaurants and bars were buzzing with atmosphere and the Romanian women are stunning, absolutely stunning, amazingly stunning. Our conversation was halted on a number of occasions over ladies entering the restaurant. Drop dead gorgeous blondes in mini skirts....no photos sorry guys.
Back to the blog... I have sunburnt hands from riding without gloves on. What an idiot!
Bucharest; if you come here be warned the traffic is a nightmare my advice if you are coming this way avoid it if you can.
Slept very soundly as very tired from the long day.
Nite nite
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Left the Black Sea resort of Sveti Vlas at 10am and made my way across Bulgaria toward the crossing to Romania at Giurgiu/Russe. The ride was great, good roads and very little traffic to hinder my progress. In some places the road surface was not up to scratch, so others beware. The only issue was the Traffic Police who are everywhere and set up checkpoints. Beware those who go to Bulgaria WATCH YOUR SPEED. Passed a number of scrub fires on the roadsides most were out of control and heading for crop fields, other the locals were desperately trying to stamp them out. I arrived at the Romanian border at 2pm and was waved though all the Bulgarian controls?? No data sticks this time and a quick check of my passport on the Romanian side but the copper was more interested in the bike than the passport. Drove into Romania and found my friend Dan waiting at the petrol station. Temperature at the border 33.5 degrees. So after our hellos and a refuel we headed for Bucharest. Dan was riding his 1200GS, I met Dan last year at the off road school in Wales and we have kept in touch via email ever since. Dan is going to compete in the Paris-Dakar Heroes rally next year.
The traffic going into the city was a nightmare and I found the city actually busier that Istanbul. Dan took me on a tour of the city ending up at the Parliament building which is massive and very impressive. It was built by Ceausescu as a palace with a boulevard to match across the centre of the city.
SANY0350c.jpg
We ended up at an apartment Dan has arranged for me in a Soviet style block close to the city centre. It was comfortable and perfect for my short overnight stay.
Dan went off to sort out some work leaving me to sort myself out, blog and email sorted. At 7pm Dan collected me and we went on another tour of the city on bikes and ended up a restaurant in the hippest part of town. Dan’s 1200GS and my 800GS fitted in perfectly and were parked just outside so we could watch the bikes. We had a lovely meal and talked about the Dakar, Bikes, BMWs etc. It was a great evening. Another tour of the city and we ended up at Dan’s work where we stashed the bikes away for the night and he dropped me off in his car. On the trip around the city I had the fright of my life as we came down a dual carriageway Dan in the middle lane and me in the slow lane the highway split causing us to go in two different directions. I had no idea where the flat was or Dan’s work, if we lost each other I was up shit creek so to speak. Lots of blasting the horn and Dan realised I was in trouble and guided me to a break in the wall which allowed me back to his side. I paid much attention after this episode.
This part is for the guys only, sorry Mrs Ghostrider - The place we went for dinner was amazing. The restaurants and bars were buzzing with atmosphere and the Romanian women are stunning, absolutely stunning, amazingly stunning. Our conversation was halted on a number of occasions over ladies entering the restaurant. Drop dead gorgeous blondes in mini skirts....no photos sorry guys.
Back to the blog... I have sunburnt hands from riding without gloves on. What an idiot!
Bucharest; if you come here be warned the traffic is a nightmare my advice if you are coming this way avoid it if you can.
Slept very soundly as very tired from the long day.
Nite nite
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Day 10
Up early yet again, knackered before I even start, Dan picked me up and we crossed the city to collect the bikes. Packed up the Beemer and we headed out into the city, Dan was going to take me to the motorway north and let me go alone. At first travelled 2km in 30 minutes, traffic still a nightmare. Stopped to change up some money but they refused to change my £10 & £20 pound notes as they had been written on as they do in England. Had to change my Euros into Romanian Lei.
Anyway Dan left me at the start of the motorway after lots of hand shaking and thank yous; he’s a great bloke. Travelled 120km on the motorway and then headed west on A type roads which were full of pot holes. The HGVs caused the going to be very slow.
Eventually started to head north into the Carpathian Mountains which have excellent type roads very much like the Alps. The only two problems are the HGVs and the road surface. Sometimes you come round a bend the surface is missing or has a pot hole. You cannot blindly go into bends, on two occasions I had HGVs on my side of the carriageway. At another point where I slowed to go though roadworks I was attacked by 5 dogs in a pack, I slowed to avoid them but they did not like the bumble bee. One was just about to get an Aplinestars boot to the chops when I managed to accelerate away. The left mirror on the bumblebee keeps swinging inwards since the incident on the ferry in Turkey, must tighten it up.
Got to a place called Petroseni and the skies above the mountains were black, I could see lightening striking the hills. All of as sudden it rained like it has never rained before; I was soaked in about 30 seconds. I managed to pull over as the rain was too hard to ride in and the road so flooded it was dangerous, I hid under my camouflage tarpaulin until it was over.
The weather today was 33 degrees when I left Bucharest the further north I go it is dropping. Thank god as I don’t really enjoy the heat when wearing motorcycle gear.
Had to make a decision about where to stay tonight; two options camping or hotel. I will come back this. One of the places I wanted to see was Vlad the Impalers castle at Hunedoara. I saw I sign pointing me in the direction and eventually found the castle. Managed to get some snaps but was too late in the day for walk round.
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As I rejoined the main road a motel presented itself to me, better option than a wild camp. So booked in, room for the night £33, Chinese meal and 5 bottled beers £12, for everything else there’s MasterCard.
So here I am slightly pissed (Thanks to Mr Heineken at £1 for 500ml) writing the blog, at Deva in Romania, tomorrow off to Slovakia and Hungary and will push the 400 miles mark if possible get into southern Poland.
Missing you all
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Up early yet again, knackered before I even start, Dan picked me up and we crossed the city to collect the bikes. Packed up the Beemer and we headed out into the city, Dan was going to take me to the motorway north and let me go alone. At first travelled 2km in 30 minutes, traffic still a nightmare. Stopped to change up some money but they refused to change my £10 & £20 pound notes as they had been written on as they do in England. Had to change my Euros into Romanian Lei.
Anyway Dan left me at the start of the motorway after lots of hand shaking and thank yous; he’s a great bloke. Travelled 120km on the motorway and then headed west on A type roads which were full of pot holes. The HGVs caused the going to be very slow.
Eventually started to head north into the Carpathian Mountains which have excellent type roads very much like the Alps. The only two problems are the HGVs and the road surface. Sometimes you come round a bend the surface is missing or has a pot hole. You cannot blindly go into bends, on two occasions I had HGVs on my side of the carriageway. At another point where I slowed to go though roadworks I was attacked by 5 dogs in a pack, I slowed to avoid them but they did not like the bumble bee. One was just about to get an Aplinestars boot to the chops when I managed to accelerate away. The left mirror on the bumblebee keeps swinging inwards since the incident on the ferry in Turkey, must tighten it up.
Got to a place called Petroseni and the skies above the mountains were black, I could see lightening striking the hills. All of as sudden it rained like it has never rained before; I was soaked in about 30 seconds. I managed to pull over as the rain was too hard to ride in and the road so flooded it was dangerous, I hid under my camouflage tarpaulin until it was over.
The weather today was 33 degrees when I left Bucharest the further north I go it is dropping. Thank god as I don’t really enjoy the heat when wearing motorcycle gear.
Had to make a decision about where to stay tonight; two options camping or hotel. I will come back this. One of the places I wanted to see was Vlad the Impalers castle at Hunedoara. I saw I sign pointing me in the direction and eventually found the castle. Managed to get some snaps but was too late in the day for walk round.
SANY0366c.jpg
SANY0369c.jpg
As I rejoined the main road a motel presented itself to me, better option than a wild camp. So booked in, room for the night £33, Chinese meal and 5 bottled beers £12, for everything else there’s MasterCard.
So here I am slightly pissed (Thanks to Mr Heineken at £1 for 500ml) writing the blog, at Deva in Romania, tomorrow off to Slovakia and Hungary and will push the 400 miles mark if possible get into southern Poland.
Missing you all
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Day 11
During the night had the most horrendous thunder storm which must have been overhead. By morning there was little sign of all the rain. Packed up and left before 9am going north.
The going was slow, singe track road with HGVs having to be overcome every few minutes. Had an hour or so on some fantastic roads over a mountain, switch backs galore but then encountered the HGVs again. Road surfaces leave a lot to be desired. Got attacked by stray dogs again, is the bumble bee tuned to dog frequency, will have to speak to BMW warranty.
Really enjoyed this morning’s riding until I was stopped by the cops just outside Oradea which is the border town to Hungary. Radar trap 70km in a 50km zone. Politeness and a British registration did not get me off. 60 Lei fine (£15) but didn’t have enough on me. Took the ticket and was told to pay at the border. I found a bank 2km down the road withdrew the cash and went back to pay the fine but the Policeman didn’t have the change. So opted for the border payment.
Made my way to the border and as part of a diversion was taken through an industrial estate. The place was lined with trucks and prostitutes, never seen streetwalking girls like this before. All dolled up to the nines (fishnets etc)at 1130 in the morning. Not a place I would want to stop. Anyway into the border area and the Romanian side was deserted. Found a policeman on the inbound side and explained I needed to pay the ticket, his advice don’t worry about it and go home, apparently since Romania joined the EU you cannot pay for tickets at the border. If I wanted to pay the ticket I would have to go back into town and find a police station. 2 Minutes later I was in Hungary. Bought a Vignette for 4 Euros and after a quick passport check was on my way. The roads in Hungary are mostly single carriageway and very frustrating. It was difficult to get mileage done. Cops out in force in yet another country.
Eventually crossed into Slovakia the border crossing was deserted. The clouds in the sky were threatening rain and lighting was hitting the hills in the distance. I had preconceived ideas about Slovakia but let me say the countryside is wonderful; the towns are not so nice. The roads are again mostly single carriageway but a new motorway is being built the length of the country and we went on and off it. Went through a tunnel a few miles long under an entire mountain. Slovakia has a mountain range similar in appearance to the Alps called the’Tatras’ and are snow capped and wonderful to see in the distance. I had just entered them when it started to spit with rain and I could see that thunder storm from earlier flashing on the mountainside. Found a hotel very quickly, an alpine lodge style building. 20 Euros for the night and had 2 pints and fish and chips for 6 Euros. Not expensive here.
SANY0377c.jpg
Boys only bit again: The girls in Slovakia are good looking, not quite as good as the Romanian standards.
So this is where I am tonight, wonderful view from the window in a comfortable room above a pub. Heaven. Now for the bad news.
Came to a few decisions today whilst riding – When I first planned this trip I wanted to go to the Asia side of Turkey, how or why the Scandinavia part of the trip got bolted on I can’t remember (likely to do with Mike Carter and his book ‘Uneasy Rider’). I believe there are two trips here and too much now for the one adventure. I am both mentally and physically exhausted after nearly two weeks on the road, have very sore eyes from the grit and wind and a sore ass. This is causing a lack of concentration which in the circumstances is dangerous (driving on the right with mad Romanian lorries). The trip is not worth getting hurt. I am also down on the finances and may have to wallop the credit card in the long run. So after I reach Poland and have a day off visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau I am going to come home via the Czech Republic and Germany. The rest of the countries can wait for another day. My initial objective of Asia has been met and I can say I have had the experience of a lifetime. I have however, as they say ‘bitten off more that I can chew’. So readers I am sorry I know you are enjoying the blog but I will be coming home next week sometime.
So until the next instalment most likely tomorrow, getting to like staying hotels rather than camping.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
During the night had the most horrendous thunder storm which must have been overhead. By morning there was little sign of all the rain. Packed up and left before 9am going north.
The going was slow, singe track road with HGVs having to be overcome every few minutes. Had an hour or so on some fantastic roads over a mountain, switch backs galore but then encountered the HGVs again. Road surfaces leave a lot to be desired. Got attacked by stray dogs again, is the bumble bee tuned to dog frequency, will have to speak to BMW warranty.
Really enjoyed this morning’s riding until I was stopped by the cops just outside Oradea which is the border town to Hungary. Radar trap 70km in a 50km zone. Politeness and a British registration did not get me off. 60 Lei fine (£15) but didn’t have enough on me. Took the ticket and was told to pay at the border. I found a bank 2km down the road withdrew the cash and went back to pay the fine but the Policeman didn’t have the change. So opted for the border payment.
Made my way to the border and as part of a diversion was taken through an industrial estate. The place was lined with trucks and prostitutes, never seen streetwalking girls like this before. All dolled up to the nines (fishnets etc)at 1130 in the morning. Not a place I would want to stop. Anyway into the border area and the Romanian side was deserted. Found a policeman on the inbound side and explained I needed to pay the ticket, his advice don’t worry about it and go home, apparently since Romania joined the EU you cannot pay for tickets at the border. If I wanted to pay the ticket I would have to go back into town and find a police station. 2 Minutes later I was in Hungary. Bought a Vignette for 4 Euros and after a quick passport check was on my way. The roads in Hungary are mostly single carriageway and very frustrating. It was difficult to get mileage done. Cops out in force in yet another country.
Eventually crossed into Slovakia the border crossing was deserted. The clouds in the sky were threatening rain and lighting was hitting the hills in the distance. I had preconceived ideas about Slovakia but let me say the countryside is wonderful; the towns are not so nice. The roads are again mostly single carriageway but a new motorway is being built the length of the country and we went on and off it. Went through a tunnel a few miles long under an entire mountain. Slovakia has a mountain range similar in appearance to the Alps called the’Tatras’ and are snow capped and wonderful to see in the distance. I had just entered them when it started to spit with rain and I could see that thunder storm from earlier flashing on the mountainside. Found a hotel very quickly, an alpine lodge style building. 20 Euros for the night and had 2 pints and fish and chips for 6 Euros. Not expensive here.
SANY0377c.jpg
Boys only bit again: The girls in Slovakia are good looking, not quite as good as the Romanian standards.
So this is where I am tonight, wonderful view from the window in a comfortable room above a pub. Heaven. Now for the bad news.
Came to a few decisions today whilst riding – When I first planned this trip I wanted to go to the Asia side of Turkey, how or why the Scandinavia part of the trip got bolted on I can’t remember (likely to do with Mike Carter and his book ‘Uneasy Rider’). I believe there are two trips here and too much now for the one adventure. I am both mentally and physically exhausted after nearly two weeks on the road, have very sore eyes from the grit and wind and a sore ass. This is causing a lack of concentration which in the circumstances is dangerous (driving on the right with mad Romanian lorries). The trip is not worth getting hurt. I am also down on the finances and may have to wallop the credit card in the long run. So after I reach Poland and have a day off visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau I am going to come home via the Czech Republic and Germany. The rest of the countries can wait for another day. My initial objective of Asia has been met and I can say I have had the experience of a lifetime. I have however, as they say ‘bitten off more that I can chew’. So readers I am sorry I know you are enjoying the blog but I will be coming home next week sometime.
So until the next instalment most likely tomorrow, getting to like staying hotels rather than camping.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Had a day to myself today. Staying at the same hotel tonight and for 20 Euros who can crumble.
Went out on the bike for a long ride nothing much to report other than Slovakia is an absolutely beautiful country.
Found this castle
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Just had a great pizza and two pints + two take away beers all for 8 euros who can complain about this country.
Off to bed to catch up on some sleep.
Off to Poland tomorrow
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Went out on the bike for a long ride nothing much to report other than Slovakia is an absolutely beautiful country.
Found this castle
SANY0380c.jpg
Just had a great pizza and two pints + two take away beers all for 8 euros who can complain about this country.
Off to bed to catch up on some sleep.
Off to Poland tomorrow
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Day 13
Had a lie in until 0800, what a luxury. Anyway packed up my kit loaded the bike and did a few regular checks including filling up the Scottoiler. Headed in the direction of Poland across the mountains. The roads in Slovakia are excellent, the countryside is wonderful and I think I have found the jewel in Europe’s crown (including beer prices and women). The area close to Poland is real Alps type country but without all the trucks and congestion. Passed through a small town with a wide shallow river which was flowing from the hills. A group of men had a tractor and trailer in the river and were taking the large stones and loading them into the trailer, I guess for building purposes. About 500m up the road I passed another group of men chucking building rubble in the river.
The dog think has started again and twice I had dogs in gardens barking at the bumble bee. Anyway crossed into Poland through a derelict and half demolished border area. The roads in Poland are great for bikes but in a poor state of repair. However there is loads of road building going and they work on the roads on a Saturday!! In roadworks which includes a single cone the speed limit is reduced to 40 kmph and I have been through the longest temporary traffic lights ever about 4 km. It was about 100 miles to Auschwitz from the hotel. The temperature was about 12 degrees and had to put a jumper on no, pleasing some people is there). Realised I've lost a padlock for one of the panniers, must have left it on top when I done the Scottoilher.
Soon arrived at Auschwitz although some of the roads were hard going and slow. For those who are coming here don’t be deceived by the people waving you into car parks. There is a number of different car operators at varying degrees of price. Check them all out before deciding. I paid 7 ZT (about £1.80 for the day) some were 3 ZT an hour. Auschwitz is free entry but I paid 47 ZT for the film and a guided tour (well worth the money about £12).
The tour took us around the first Auschwitz and saw the displays of Glasses, shoes and suitcases and a bus then takes you over to Birkenau for site visit. Birkenau is the main camp where the slaughter took place and is an disturbing place to see just from the sheer size of it. Its weird to stand in the place where the photographs shows people being selected for death or work camps.
Auschwitz is a must for a visit it is awe-inspiring.
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Collasped Gas Chamber at Birkenau
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The sheer scale - photo from the tower in photo above
Following the visit fuelled up and started towards the Czech Republic but found a way decent hotel for 35 Euros with secure parking, internet and a good looking receptionist. The restaurant next just done me 2 pints and steak N chips for about £12. Poland seems OK at this point no complaints so far (apart from I’ve either dislodged a filling or broken a tooth, the beer is numbing the pain).
Mrs Ghostrider quick look behind you a new shoe shop...right lads whilst she’s not looking the girls in Poland as good as Slovakia but nowhere near Romania.
Been thinking about my decision to come home today – definitely the right decision, today I nearly rear ended the same car twice due to lack of concentration. Both my wrists are painful from the riding. I thought I was a fairly fit 40 year old but I’m not next trip needs more fitness. Time and money are both coming issues as well.
Hoping to be back in the UK on Tuesday morning for a coffee and breakfast with the lads in Dover. Still got 900+ miles to complete across Europe to Calais - sure there's more adventure in there somewhere. The Beemer has developed an oil leak from a a rubber bung on the crankcase (not a problem though).
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Had a lie in until 0800, what a luxury. Anyway packed up my kit loaded the bike and did a few regular checks including filling up the Scottoiler. Headed in the direction of Poland across the mountains. The roads in Slovakia are excellent, the countryside is wonderful and I think I have found the jewel in Europe’s crown (including beer prices and women). The area close to Poland is real Alps type country but without all the trucks and congestion. Passed through a small town with a wide shallow river which was flowing from the hills. A group of men had a tractor and trailer in the river and were taking the large stones and loading them into the trailer, I guess for building purposes. About 500m up the road I passed another group of men chucking building rubble in the river.
The dog think has started again and twice I had dogs in gardens barking at the bumble bee. Anyway crossed into Poland through a derelict and half demolished border area. The roads in Poland are great for bikes but in a poor state of repair. However there is loads of road building going and they work on the roads on a Saturday!! In roadworks which includes a single cone the speed limit is reduced to 40 kmph and I have been through the longest temporary traffic lights ever about 4 km. It was about 100 miles to Auschwitz from the hotel. The temperature was about 12 degrees and had to put a jumper on no, pleasing some people is there). Realised I've lost a padlock for one of the panniers, must have left it on top when I done the Scottoilher.
Soon arrived at Auschwitz although some of the roads were hard going and slow. For those who are coming here don’t be deceived by the people waving you into car parks. There is a number of different car operators at varying degrees of price. Check them all out before deciding. I paid 7 ZT (about £1.80 for the day) some were 3 ZT an hour. Auschwitz is free entry but I paid 47 ZT for the film and a guided tour (well worth the money about £12).
The tour took us around the first Auschwitz and saw the displays of Glasses, shoes and suitcases and a bus then takes you over to Birkenau for site visit. Birkenau is the main camp where the slaughter took place and is an disturbing place to see just from the sheer size of it. Its weird to stand in the place where the photographs shows people being selected for death or work camps.
Auschwitz is a must for a visit it is awe-inspiring.
SANY0466c.jpg
SANY0514c.jpg
Collasped Gas Chamber at Birkenau
SANY0533c.jpg
SANY0544c.jpg
The sheer scale - photo from the tower in photo above
Following the visit fuelled up and started towards the Czech Republic but found a way decent hotel for 35 Euros with secure parking, internet and a good looking receptionist. The restaurant next just done me 2 pints and steak N chips for about £12. Poland seems OK at this point no complaints so far (apart from I’ve either dislodged a filling or broken a tooth, the beer is numbing the pain).
Mrs Ghostrider quick look behind you a new shoe shop...right lads whilst she’s not looking the girls in Poland as good as Slovakia but nowhere near Romania.
Been thinking about my decision to come home today – definitely the right decision, today I nearly rear ended the same car twice due to lack of concentration. Both my wrists are painful from the riding. I thought I was a fairly fit 40 year old but I’m not next trip needs more fitness. Time and money are both coming issues as well.
Hoping to be back in the UK on Tuesday morning for a coffee and breakfast with the lads in Dover. Still got 900+ miles to complete across Europe to Calais - sure there's more adventure in there somewhere. The Beemer has developed an oil leak from a a rubber bung on the crankcase (not a problem though).
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Day 14/15
Got up have breakfast and leave early from the hotel. Downstairs for breakfast at 07.30 to be told on a Sunday breakfast is at 08.00. So packed up the bike checked out (same good looking receptionist) and at 08.00 was in for breakfast. The car park has about 3 cars and the beemer but the breakfast was laid out about 50 people. More and more hot food appeared, eggs, tomatoes, pastries. So stuffed myself and it washed down with Polish (near syrup style) strong coffee.
At 08.20 left the hotel with the kitchen staff all out the back watching me go and pointing at the bike. Headed for the motorway towards Wroclaw, one thing I can say about Poland is the road signs are numerous, helpful and very very large. (One town direction sign I had seen on a roundabout was about 15foot long, even David Blunkett and his dog couldn’t miss that one). Once on the motorway sat at a steady 70 mph heading in the direction of Germany. Sat nav shows about 900 miles to Calais. Polish motorways are very devoid of petrol stations and had to dive off to refuel when things were starting to look at bit desperate. Chucked 5 litres in my petrol can just in case.
Made the border to Germany without incident. The border had no passport check area but did have a search area and a couple of very hard looking German Police/Customs were pulling in Polish cars. I wonder if this had anything to do with the roadside cigarette stalls selling bulk cigarettes in the lay-bys just before the border.
Started to cross Germany, I planned to do a 400 to 450 miler day to get home on target. Keeping to the steady 70mph and rocking inside my helmet to Metallica, Iron Maiden and other very heavy music I made good progress. Lots of stops for water, fuel and map checks. At 3pm stopped just the other side of Leipzig and had a rest. Laid on the grass next to the bike and fell asleep in the glorious sunshine for an hour. Feeling great carried on.
At about 6pm with the light fading and on a A-road between motorways found a sign for a hotel; had completed 450 miles so thought it was a good place to stop for the night. Went inside this village bar/hotel which had about 12 German older men sat around in groups. I approached the bar and enquired about the rooms. Whilst the Bar tender made a call I looked around the bar nobody spoke a word, they were all staring at me, I mean really staring at me. I nodded hello to a couple of them, no reaction – Where am I, I thought to myself and remembered outside the two young males with straining pitbulls on leads (complete with shaved heads – no braces or boots). I was starting to get the creeps and was thinking this was a bad idea. Still not a word from anybody in the bar, maybe its funeral I thought, nobody was wearing black. Not a happy bunny I was expecting somebody to say something even “Das Englander das escaped on zie motorbike from Stalag Luft, er ist going to jump zie fence like zie Ameriikaner in 1943” (The Great Escape 1963).
Fantasy over the bar tender came back, no rooms even thought she had already said she had. Relieved I was not staying there jumped on the bike and headed for the Swiss border avoiding all military checkpoints and then was chased and fired on by a bike and side car....back in that fantasy again. (see what long hours in the saddle of a German bike can do)
Back on the motorway a little later in a remote part of Germany I came to the decision to just carry on, no chance of a hotel or campsite nearby. It was quickly getting dark. At 8pm pulled over somewhere gods knows where in the country and brewed up a coffee and opened some emergency rations of special fried rice and meatballs in sauce. Body refuelled carried on into the darkness and decided to carry on to Calais or until unable to carry on any further. At 1am that happened just over the German/Belgian border where I was falling asleep in my helmet. Pulled over into a lay-by which was well lit parked the bike next to a picnic table opened up the Bivvy bag and climbed inside with full motorcycle gear on. Almost as soon as I had laid down a car roared into the lay-by with three heavy set males and parked a few feet from me. ‘Oh no’ I thought here I am in Belgium after all that travel and this where I get done over. Anyway they hadn’t seen me, they changed driver and the Romanian car roared off back to the motorway. Relief and I drifted off to sleep. Three hours later was awoken by the hiss of air brakes from a lorry that had pulled in. So got up feeling much better and back onto the motorway towards Brussels.
Stopped the Calais side of Brussels in the daylight for breakfast which consisted of Diet Coke and a Twix. Emptied the spare fuel into the tank and started the final run in to Calais Port. Arrived at the Port at 07.45 and approached P&O. Explained I had come back early on my ticket, a jaw dropping £60 amendment fee to go on the 08.35 ferry. Went to the booking offices and sneakily went to SeaFrance first for a quote for a one way ticket £77. So went to the P&O office paid up and queued for the ferry. My original return ticket for the month was only £29. If I had thought ahead would have booked an internet ticket at half the price.
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I was the first vehicle loaded, strapped down the bike and sent a text ahead to Dover to my work colleagues that I was on my way. Found the Costa coffee and sat down with it and my book for a relaxing 90 minutes.
Time flies and phone rang, it was Dover calling and looking out the window I could just see the harbour through the mist. I actually wonder if I fell asleep the journey was that quick. The boat docked and off we went and two of friends from work were at the bottom of the off-ramp with a great welcome home. I was really pleased to see them and touched with their consideration of seeing me off the boat. They told me to go to the staff canteen where a coffee and a fatboys breakfast waiting for me. So we sat and recounted tales of my travels whilst munching on a place of the best tasting food ever (thanks Nigel). Even my boss came and welcomed me back.
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Following this had a few pictures for the album and started to make my way the 20 miles home. Popped quickly into see my parents who were very relieved to see me home safe and well. (They thought I would be mugged, shot, robbed, raped and generally dismembered in every country outside France).
Then I arrived home to an empty house. My neighbour who was painting his fence said ‘Morning Geoff been to work on your bike today’ I dunno what he thought I did with a tent sleeping bag etc whilst at work?
Unpacked the bike, piled the washing in front of the machine (Prezzie for Mrs Ghostrider) and had a long shower. Fell asleep for a short while after scaring the hell out of the kids when they came home thinking I would be back tomorrow. Mrs Ghostrider was over to moon to see me and we celebrated with a Chinese and the photos slide show through the Wii. Too tired for beer tonight but tomorrow will have a few.
Total miles today from Tychy in Poland to my house a massive 922 miles and yes my ass hurts along with my wrists and knees.
Tomorrow a day of relaxing and sorting out the kit.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
PS. More to follow over the next couple of days
Got up have breakfast and leave early from the hotel. Downstairs for breakfast at 07.30 to be told on a Sunday breakfast is at 08.00. So packed up the bike checked out (same good looking receptionist) and at 08.00 was in for breakfast. The car park has about 3 cars and the beemer but the breakfast was laid out about 50 people. More and more hot food appeared, eggs, tomatoes, pastries. So stuffed myself and it washed down with Polish (near syrup style) strong coffee.
At 08.20 left the hotel with the kitchen staff all out the back watching me go and pointing at the bike. Headed for the motorway towards Wroclaw, one thing I can say about Poland is the road signs are numerous, helpful and very very large. (One town direction sign I had seen on a roundabout was about 15foot long, even David Blunkett and his dog couldn’t miss that one). Once on the motorway sat at a steady 70 mph heading in the direction of Germany. Sat nav shows about 900 miles to Calais. Polish motorways are very devoid of petrol stations and had to dive off to refuel when things were starting to look at bit desperate. Chucked 5 litres in my petrol can just in case.
Made the border to Germany without incident. The border had no passport check area but did have a search area and a couple of very hard looking German Police/Customs were pulling in Polish cars. I wonder if this had anything to do with the roadside cigarette stalls selling bulk cigarettes in the lay-bys just before the border.
Started to cross Germany, I planned to do a 400 to 450 miler day to get home on target. Keeping to the steady 70mph and rocking inside my helmet to Metallica, Iron Maiden and other very heavy music I made good progress. Lots of stops for water, fuel and map checks. At 3pm stopped just the other side of Leipzig and had a rest. Laid on the grass next to the bike and fell asleep in the glorious sunshine for an hour. Feeling great carried on.
At about 6pm with the light fading and on a A-road between motorways found a sign for a hotel; had completed 450 miles so thought it was a good place to stop for the night. Went inside this village bar/hotel which had about 12 German older men sat around in groups. I approached the bar and enquired about the rooms. Whilst the Bar tender made a call I looked around the bar nobody spoke a word, they were all staring at me, I mean really staring at me. I nodded hello to a couple of them, no reaction – Where am I, I thought to myself and remembered outside the two young males with straining pitbulls on leads (complete with shaved heads – no braces or boots). I was starting to get the creeps and was thinking this was a bad idea. Still not a word from anybody in the bar, maybe its funeral I thought, nobody was wearing black. Not a happy bunny I was expecting somebody to say something even “Das Englander das escaped on zie motorbike from Stalag Luft, er ist going to jump zie fence like zie Ameriikaner in 1943” (The Great Escape 1963).
Fantasy over the bar tender came back, no rooms even thought she had already said she had. Relieved I was not staying there jumped on the bike and headed for the Swiss border avoiding all military checkpoints and then was chased and fired on by a bike and side car....back in that fantasy again. (see what long hours in the saddle of a German bike can do)
Back on the motorway a little later in a remote part of Germany I came to the decision to just carry on, no chance of a hotel or campsite nearby. It was quickly getting dark. At 8pm pulled over somewhere gods knows where in the country and brewed up a coffee and opened some emergency rations of special fried rice and meatballs in sauce. Body refuelled carried on into the darkness and decided to carry on to Calais or until unable to carry on any further. At 1am that happened just over the German/Belgian border where I was falling asleep in my helmet. Pulled over into a lay-by which was well lit parked the bike next to a picnic table opened up the Bivvy bag and climbed inside with full motorcycle gear on. Almost as soon as I had laid down a car roared into the lay-by with three heavy set males and parked a few feet from me. ‘Oh no’ I thought here I am in Belgium after all that travel and this where I get done over. Anyway they hadn’t seen me, they changed driver and the Romanian car roared off back to the motorway. Relief and I drifted off to sleep. Three hours later was awoken by the hiss of air brakes from a lorry that had pulled in. So got up feeling much better and back onto the motorway towards Brussels.
Stopped the Calais side of Brussels in the daylight for breakfast which consisted of Diet Coke and a Twix. Emptied the spare fuel into the tank and started the final run in to Calais Port. Arrived at the Port at 07.45 and approached P&O. Explained I had come back early on my ticket, a jaw dropping £60 amendment fee to go on the 08.35 ferry. Went to the booking offices and sneakily went to SeaFrance first for a quote for a one way ticket £77. So went to the P&O office paid up and queued for the ferry. My original return ticket for the month was only £29. If I had thought ahead would have booked an internet ticket at half the price.
SANY0559c.jpg
I was the first vehicle loaded, strapped down the bike and sent a text ahead to Dover to my work colleagues that I was on my way. Found the Costa coffee and sat down with it and my book for a relaxing 90 minutes.
Time flies and phone rang, it was Dover calling and looking out the window I could just see the harbour through the mist. I actually wonder if I fell asleep the journey was that quick. The boat docked and off we went and two of friends from work were at the bottom of the off-ramp with a great welcome home. I was really pleased to see them and touched with their consideration of seeing me off the boat. They told me to go to the staff canteen where a coffee and a fatboys breakfast waiting for me. So we sat and recounted tales of my travels whilst munching on a place of the best tasting food ever (thanks Nigel). Even my boss came and welcomed me back.
SANY0571c.jpg
Following this had a few pictures for the album and started to make my way the 20 miles home. Popped quickly into see my parents who were very relieved to see me home safe and well. (They thought I would be mugged, shot, robbed, raped and generally dismembered in every country outside France).
Then I arrived home to an empty house. My neighbour who was painting his fence said ‘Morning Geoff been to work on your bike today’ I dunno what he thought I did with a tent sleeping bag etc whilst at work?
Unpacked the bike, piled the washing in front of the machine (Prezzie for Mrs Ghostrider) and had a long shower. Fell asleep for a short while after scaring the hell out of the kids when they came home thinking I would be back tomorrow. Mrs Ghostrider was over to moon to see me and we celebrated with a Chinese and the photos slide show through the Wii. Too tired for beer tonight but tomorrow will have a few.
Total miles today from Tychy in Poland to my house a massive 922 miles and yes my ass hurts along with my wrists and knees.
Tomorrow a day of relaxing and sorting out the kit.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
PS. More to follow over the next couple of days
Final Thoughts
In true Jerry Springer style it’s time for my thoughts now I have been back a couple of days, had time to do the washing, see the nearest and dearest and catch up on some greatly needed sleep. Firstly the stats: 13 Countries visited (including San Marino; they have a national football team so it counts)and 4735 miles ridden overall.
I am disappointed that I did not finish what I first proposed but having spent two weeks on the road I can see the challenge was far bigger that I imagined. The proposed route was about 6680 using Garmin Mapsource but as you can see the mileage I have done in two weeks and not even getting half way means that my mileage count was way off. I have below 50% of my funds left and drastically under-estimated the cost of the trip. More than anything it was too big for a challenge at this stage of my touring career and looking back should have set a more realistic goal of two weeks and maybe the route I have done.
z actual route of rtb c.jpg
Actual route of Round the Bloc part 1
I am proud of what I have done but next time I go that far away from home I may think seriously about having a riding partner to share the ups and more importantly the lows. I would like to thank all those who helped me during my trip and those who sent me countless messages of support.
The bike has performed brilliantly and apart from the deflated tyre (possible lifted tube patch) it has not missed a beat and I am very pleased with its performance. It’s now going into SLM in Caterham for a 6000 mile service and some TLC, the beemer looks good now it’s all washed.
The trip has shown me what all travellers worldwide say about people’s kindness and I have been amazed how people react to a stranger in their community. I would do it all again – not tomorrow but in time with some better planning. Now the next trip....it has to be the second half of Round the Bloc, or Round the Bloc Part 2, when and how will have to worked out but it will be completed.
Best and worse of part 1 Round the Bloc
best-worse.jpg
Ghostriders top ten travelling tips:
1. Lay out your kit then chuck half of it away
2. If you’re not sure don’t take it
3. Hotels are cheap enough and everywhere don’t bother with the camping
4. Estimate how much it will cost and double it
5. Be realistic with mileage
6. Make time for sights
7. Talk to the locals
8. Always keep to speed limits in small towns and villages and pay attention ahead for speed traps
9. If you get a Greek ferry don’t pay for extras, stick to the basics.
10. Have good fitness level to ride for the duration, take days off
For those of you travelling or about to travel take care, ride safe and I hope my blog and experiences enhance your trips. Any questions either post them or PM me and I will reply.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
In true Jerry Springer style it’s time for my thoughts now I have been back a couple of days, had time to do the washing, see the nearest and dearest and catch up on some greatly needed sleep. Firstly the stats: 13 Countries visited (including San Marino; they have a national football team so it counts)and 4735 miles ridden overall.
I am disappointed that I did not finish what I first proposed but having spent two weeks on the road I can see the challenge was far bigger that I imagined. The proposed route was about 6680 using Garmin Mapsource but as you can see the mileage I have done in two weeks and not even getting half way means that my mileage count was way off. I have below 50% of my funds left and drastically under-estimated the cost of the trip. More than anything it was too big for a challenge at this stage of my touring career and looking back should have set a more realistic goal of two weeks and maybe the route I have done.
z actual route of rtb c.jpg
Actual route of Round the Bloc part 1
I am proud of what I have done but next time I go that far away from home I may think seriously about having a riding partner to share the ups and more importantly the lows. I would like to thank all those who helped me during my trip and those who sent me countless messages of support.
The bike has performed brilliantly and apart from the deflated tyre (possible lifted tube patch) it has not missed a beat and I am very pleased with its performance. It’s now going into SLM in Caterham for a 6000 mile service and some TLC, the beemer looks good now it’s all washed.
The trip has shown me what all travellers worldwide say about people’s kindness and I have been amazed how people react to a stranger in their community. I would do it all again – not tomorrow but in time with some better planning. Now the next trip....it has to be the second half of Round the Bloc, or Round the Bloc Part 2, when and how will have to worked out but it will be completed.
Best and worse of part 1 Round the Bloc
best-worse.jpg
Ghostriders top ten travelling tips:
1. Lay out your kit then chuck half of it away
2. If you’re not sure don’t take it
3. Hotels are cheap enough and everywhere don’t bother with the camping
4. Estimate how much it will cost and double it
5. Be realistic with mileage
6. Make time for sights
7. Talk to the locals
8. Always keep to speed limits in small towns and villages and pay attention ahead for speed traps
9. If you get a Greek ferry don’t pay for extras, stick to the basics.
10. Have good fitness level to ride for the duration, take days off
For those of you travelling or about to travel take care, ride safe and I hope my blog and experiences enhance your trips. Any questions either post them or PM me and I will reply.
Ghostrider AKA Geoff
Tuesday 29 November 2011
Round the BLOC trip 2009
Please read my first travel blog at the following address:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185579
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185579
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