No 2 Italy post

Day 9
This was a day I was really looking forward to. My chance to ride the Stelvio Pass. There was a storm in the mountains the day before and when we arrived it was closed. Part of the road had been washed away and it was going to be 3+ days before it reopened. We had to go into Switzerland again and pay 12 Euros to use a tunnel to get around the blockage. As soon as we got into Austria we found a campsite in view of the border. That night we had tagliatelle again and shared it with a German cyclist who had also had to go around the Stelvio Pass.


 
Day 10
After leaving the campsite bought a vignette for the motorway and headed across Austria. We were heading for Fussen where we were going to following the Romantic Road through southern Germany. The route runs from Fussen to Wurzburg. You have to follow the brown signs and it takes you through quant little villages. It wasn't up to the expectation of the website. We camped at Lansberg Am Lech and had a electrical storm but no rain. The camp site was not the best and was glad to leave in the morning.

Day 11/12
We followed the route through Germany camping the next night at Dinkelbuhl. We found lots of road works and diversions which meant we lost the signs. We met a couple from Belfast who were also touring the Romantic Road.

 

Day 12 saw us arrive at Wurzberg and we found a camp site just outside the town. We arrived at lunch time so had the entire afternoon to rest and recoup. The campsite filled up with campers and caravans until full. We spent a good part of the evening with a load of Dutch teenagers who wanted to practise their English. It was a bit of an impromptu English class.

Day 13
We had a lot of miles ahead of us so we decided to hit the motorway and bash 300 miles out on the autobahns. We rode through the day into Holland and then into Belgium. The plan was to head for Leuven in Belgium (just east of Brussels). On arrival we could not find any campsite signs around the town so I looked on my sat nav (Garmin 390 which was a very useful item of kit). I found one only a few miles away. When we arrived at the top of this cobbled lane we were presented with a large metal gate. Now I have camped all over Europe and this didn't feel right but over the intercom they had room for two persons/one moto and tent for one night. We were showed to this camping field and to my shock everybody was naked. We had only arrived at a nudist campsite. We made our apologies and left. We found another campsite where everybody was dressed. That night there was a massive thunder storm and we had water running through the tent.

Day 14
We rode across Belgium and went to a familiar campsite at Ypres. On the way we stopped at Tyne Cot cemetery from WW1. After setting up we went into town and wandered around, went and had a great meal and a few beers in the town square. There was a stage set up and enjoyed a free concert before attending to pay our respects for the 8pm last post at the Menin Gate.


Day 15
This was a lazy start as we had booked in at Eurotunnel after lunch. We rode to Calais and found a Macdonald's where we used the free wifi and drunk coffee. We went into the port early and we were allowed to board an earlier train home. The short ride off the train and we were home to see the little G's. The washing was put on and the bike unpacked. I have only 3 weeks of work before I'm off again to Spain with Andy in September.






Thoughts of the trip:
I had a brilliant time and it was great being able to share an adventure with Mrs G. The bike was faultless and the new Garmin sat nav was worth every penny. I do know I can't sit on the floor for two weeks so I have bought a Helinox chair for the next trip. Italy was better than I remember and we will be going back to explore some more. The Route De Grande Alps was truly outstanding the roads and views top class. Overall a very good trip.

Mrs G:
Having never joined Geoff on one of his trips before I was not entirely sure what to expect.  The pillion riding was fine as we often stopped for coffee or a leg stretch, once I had my music plugged in the longer rides passed quickly.  I became the official photographer for the trip (something Geoff does not normally do) and clicked away on the back of the bike, often without Geoff even noticing.  Some photos did not quite make the mark but I really captured a lot of the scenery. I am looking forward to our next rip together - little jealous that I am not going to Spain in a couple of weeks but unfortunately I have to return to work!
 

Me & Mrs G go to Italy.

For our summer holiday this year we decided to have a motorcycle road trip. The plan was to go to Italy and if possible Rome. We left on the 1st August.

Day 1
Eurotunnel  to France then onto the toll roads and 400 miles later we camped at Poligny at the base of the French Alps. Nice little municipal camp site with cheese and wine evening. It rained for the last hour of the ride so went to bed with wet riding gear.

Day 2
Took the N5 over the first part of the Alps to a town called Gex. I had ridden this rode on the Monaco trip and it was still excellent. Entered into Switzerland without hassle unlike last time and made our way through Geneva. The lake was closed off due to a cycle race. We made our way to the other side of the lake back into France. At a town called Thonon Les Bains we joined the D902 south. This is known as the Route De Grande Alpes. Camped at Le Grand Bernard and the first of many tagliatelle meals on the trip.


Day 3 
Crossing the Alps over high peaks and valleys. Went through Val D Isere and over Col D Iseran the highest point. The picture speak a thousand words. Camped a Valloire and went out for dinner. Pizza in a lovely little restaurant.

Day 4
More peaks and valleys. Excellent riding on very twisty roads. Camped the night at St Malmas a short ride to Menton (on the Med). The campsite we chose was full but Mrs G worked her magic on the owner who found a little spot for us.


Day 5
Rode into Menton having crossed the Alps and completed the Route De Grande Alps. After coffee on the Med we rode into Italy a short ride along the coast. We decided to use the autostradas (toll motorways). We stopped at a town called Sestri Levente and had loads of camp sites to choose from. Another tagliatelle night. Three things went wrong on this day: 1. Lost a drinks can off the pannier 2. Tried to ride off with disc lock on 3. Put my helmet on an ants nest and got it full of ants. That night the heat was incredible, during the day it was 42 degrees,

Day 6
Autostradas again into Pisa. Thank god the tower is quite high, managed to find it. Parked a couple of streets away and walked to see it. It truly leans over a high angle. Well worth the ride to see it. After some lunch we nearly got into trouble with the police who were giving tickets to cars. Whilst they were issuing a ticket to a Swiss car next to me we rode off. The plan was to find a camp site. Found one in Pisa but decided to head north. Where we though we might find a camp site we didn't and nearly had to wild camp. We decided to go to Lake Garda found a camp site but it was such a rip off 50 Euros for a small space on a traffic island. Eventually found a space on a camp site up the coast for 30 Euros with an excellent pizza restaurant. The camping pitches don't have grass they have stones so had to put all the towels under the themarest to stop punctures. Met a Polish biker and chatted for ages about Triumphs.

 

This picture was taken by a professional photographer and bought it from his website.

 

Day 7/8

After our night at Lake Garda we went into Verona which is only about 15 miles away. We parked in a moped parking area right in the city main square. Mrs G went for a wander leaving me sat people watching. We went for dinner in a small restaurant. Mrs G found a tourist map and discovered Juliet's house from Romeo and Juliet (Mrs G's favourite play). So we went and found it and wrote on the wall of lovers. Alison got her photo of the balcony...Romeo oh Romeo where for art...... Handed my parking space to a Russian adventure biker.

Following our Verona visit we went back to the lakes but went to a smaller lake called Lake D'Iseo. We found a camp site called Eden in a town called Pisogne. It really was heaven our pitch was our 100ft from the lake side. We stayed there for 2 nights I managed to lose a flipflop in lake and melt the tent bag. The local shopping mall found us replacements for both.



 

The Full Monaco Blog

The full plan was to update the blog whilst on the road. Well that plan failed dismally as free Wi-Fi is hard to find in France. McDonalds appears to be the best solution but they are fairly rare.

For this trip we have the following bikes:  Mr W is riding a 1995 Triumph Sprint and I am on the 2013 Super Tenere. We left early Saturday morning the tunnel was busy and we queued to get to the train from the car park. It was busy as it was Bank Holiday weekend. So we get to the loading lanes and park up with all the other bikers. Within minutes we are called forward. Mr W tried to start his bike......oh no it's as flat as a pancake. (subsequently worked out the heated grip discharged the battery in the queue). So Mr W is now trying to bump start the bike in a spare lane in front of hundreds of holiday makers. To his success and near asthma attack he comes back after a couple of minutes with the bike running. We load onto the train but the dilemma is: will it start in France. So for 35 minutes we hope and pray and........yes it started. We rock out onto the motorway and head south on the toll road to towards Reims. Then Djion and Lyon eventually we got to Grenoble at about 7pm, exhausted, and set up on a camp site. 578 MILES. This camp was at Vizille, the start of the Route De Napolen. We slept well that night. My new Bose noise cancelling earphones were incredible and made the mileage bearable - highly recommended.

Day two started with a beautiful morning surrounded by mountains, mist covering the top. We had breakfast and packed up. A little sore from the previous days ride. We rode out of town to find the N85 Route De Napoleon. Well it went vertical up the side of this mountain. We stopped every 1/2 mile to take photos. Views stunning. As the road went on the views got better and better. The roads got better and better, more twisty bits. Classic Alpine roads with Armco barriers to stop you plunging hundreds of feet. Incredible ride. We turned off the N85 in the afternoon along the N202 towards Nice. That road in my opinion was even better, reminded me very much of travelling in the Indian Himalayas. Awesome, one of the best days riding I have ever done. It started to get late as we approached Nice. A lack of camp site signs made me find one on the Sat Nav. 19 miles it said......more like 29 miles but it was worth it. Swimming pool, free Wi-Fi (which didn't work). Boy it was hot, the bike registered the temperature as 28/29 degrees. We pitched up and met another two bikers from the UK who had gone down by Moto-rail. They said it cost about £80 from Paris to Nice which is worth considering and it was overnight on a sleeper train. We had a beer, dinner and spent the evening discussing the fantastic roads. Brilliant days riding, I am impressed by the South of France.

Day three - we packed up and headed into Nice and quickly found the road to Monaco. The road is urban but follows the coast up and down over the cliffs. A cruise liner was in at Beaulieu and we stopped for a few pictures. Then we got to Monaco..... As we approached the 'Welcome to Monaco' sign there was road works. We wanted to stop. Mr W rode through I tooted the workman and indicted for him to turn the stop sign as I wanted take a picture. He did, must have though I was bonkers. So I got the Monaco sign. We rode into Monaco, I had impressions the place would be packed and nowhere to park etc. but actually I was quite surprised with the specific bike parks. We headed for the harbour and found ourselves entering the race track at the start of the start/finish straight. Lots of traffic - it's a normal road. The fencing looks like a permanent feature but all the grandstands were erected and signage going up. The following weekend was the E Grand Prix and the following is the F1 Grand Prix.
We followed the track along the start finish up to the start of Casino Square, the route was barred by the Police so had a short detour around the corner and re-joined the track the other side of the Casino Square. Then onto the hotel hairpin and round Mirabeau and Portier into the tunnel. We whooped and tooted the horns. 25 years in the planning and we had made it into the tunnel. Then onto the Harbour and the Swimming Pool and we stopped on the apex of the Rascasse to chat. We were so excited like two school boys. We set up the GoPro and then proceeded to spent the next two hours riding our version of the circuit. F1 drivers drive the course at about 1min 15 seconds, we took 11 minutes but were carrying sleeping bags and stoves in our defence!
When we were done in Monaco and the Stewards on the circuit were now starting to notice us keep going past we headed out of town towards Menton, we stopped on the seafront and had coffee looking at the Med. (Next stop Africa). It was here we had the best chips of the trip. A sign on the road indicted we were within a few minutes of the Italian border.
We started the long trip north and into the mountains stopping at a town called Sospel. Collected fuel and supplies and found a camp site which was virtually deserted. Brilliant sunset over the mountains, full moon and all toasted down with spiced rum. A day to remember. (Mr W - Thanks mate it was a blast.)

 

 

                                                               Next stop Africa


Day four - Fun in the mountains was looming. The plan was to follow the Routs De Grand Alpes from Menton to Lake Geneva. I had found out about this route from the latest edition of ABR magazine. It looked a great route and was on our doorstep so why not try it. Anyway from the  camp site we climbed to over 5000 feet on switchback after switchback. The roads are back water alpine roads and not as good quality as the main roads. At the top was a ski resort (without snow). We travelled a few miles along the mountain top, views were stunning and in the distance you could see Nice and the Med. We then came down the mountain again switch backs, I was in my element. At a road split I waited for Mr W who pulled up indicting to stop. He explained his back brakes had stopped working and that he struggled to come down the mountain. His rear brake was boiling hot, the disc had turned blue from the intense heat and the brakes were not working. I suspected the brake fluid had boiled.
We decided to let the brakes cool down and see if they started working again, they did but at a much reduced efficiency. It would have been madness to attempt to go further into the inner Alps on roads with no barriers and long drops. We decided to nurse the bike back to the main roads. The N202 and N85 were not that far away. A slow ride got us onto the main roads and with the braking condition of the Sprint this was the best option. (I now have unfinished business with that route). That night we camped just outside Gap on the N85. We were the only occupants on the campsite, cost 11 Euros and had an under toilet and shower. Great campsite right next to the River Drac.

 Day five - We decided to jump on the toll roads and escape further north. We had lost a lot of time yesterday with the brake issue. At Grenoble we started north and planned to toll road to Geneva then jump back onto the main roads. All was going well till we got to Switzerland. We crossed the border and was stopped by the police at a checkpoint and told to pay 50 Euros for a 'Vignette', this is a motorway tax. We explained we were in the country for a few minutes on the motorway but every question was answered with a 50 Euros, and it lasts a year. In the end he told us to pay or leave Switzerland, we left and went back to France. We went into the local town and had a coffee and discussed the next move. 5 Euros for two coffees. By now I had the hump, we left this shitty town and its the only place we saw prostitutes working the laybys on the edge of town - Shit hole. It was called St Julien by the way. We made our way round Switzerland and over a mountain on the N5 from Gex to Poligny. During this detour we passed the entrance to the Hadron Collider at CERN. This took us through many ski resorts and was the only place we actually saw snow on the ground. The temperature drop was also very noticeable. We camped just north of Besancon that night.

                                                      Behind me is Lake Geneva
 

Day six - That was just a cross country ride north. At some point I pinged a French speed camera so we'll see what happens with that? We camped just south of Belgium at Vervins and then the most exciting thing happened all day......I stood on the campsite owner's cat....twice. There is only so many times to say 'pardon' with a French accent.

Day seven - Morning started with the bread van and warm bread from the bakery. Unknown to us it was WW2 Victory Day in France, a national holiday. The roads were empty, the shops closed and eerily quiet. We managed to get fuel at a Carrefour Supermarket and motored towards Belgium. Just after midday we were sent on a road diversion due to a bike race which took us past the Canadian WW1 Memorial  at Vimy Ridge. We stopped and had a good look around, saw a crater from the trench underground explosion. We spoke to a group of bikers from Notts who belonged to the Blue Knights. We made our way to Ypres and we went to Tyne Cott cemetery to pay our respects, well if it wasn't for those soldiers we couldn't have done our trip across Europe. Camping was at the campsite in the centre of Ypres, dinner was a romantic Pizza for two on a street table. At 8pm we were at the Menin Gate for the nightly ceremony. It was packed and it was VE day it was also the 100th anniversary of the Princess Patricia Canadian Light Infantry famous battle in WW1 which nearly wiped out the regiment. We learnt all this from a serviceman stood with us. Back to the campsite in the rain, bed, oh not before munching down celebratory cream cakes we had bought.

Day eight - Packed the kit away and went to the Channel Tunnel. It was windy and the cross wind was strong, nearly taking us out on a number of occasions. We boarded a slightly early Shuttle and came back to the UK.
We rode of the train together and down the exit road before traveling one junction together, I peeled off to let Mr W travel back home alone.

 

Mileage
Me: 1832
Mr W:  2025

Final thoughts
Me: The South of France and the Alps is biking heaven and to be able to ride the GP circuit in Monaco really was such a cool thing to do. I had great company. All the years we have been friends this was the first boy's holiday we have ever had. Thanks Buddy. Oh and thanks to Mrs W for letting him out to play xx
I also have found a great money making idea.....Export toilet seats and bog roll to France there appears to be a distinct lack of both at their campsites.

Thoughts of a Novice by Mr W

Like Mr G I was too very apprehensive whether my trusted steed would be able to cope. I need not have worried as my bike on this occasion faired better than myself. 2025 miles in 9 nine days and only missed a beat once only because I was being a big girl and had my heated grips on whilst booking in and going through the borders at Folkestone. (I flattened the battery).The trip itself was everything and also nothing what I had expected. The riding on some of days was hard, either from the terrain, my capabilities and or the weather. Living in Buckinghamshire and only really using my bike as a means of going to and from work I found the Alpine terrain really tough. That doesn't mean I didn't enjoy the roads it just meant that sometimes my riding capabilities let me down. And it was only on our last day did we really encounter any adverse weather conditions, that was a strong cross wind on the flat plains of Belgium.But these minor things do not compare to the places and the people we met along the way. The only French I know is from my school days (which was a bloody long time ago) but nobody made us feel uneasy or awkward but welcomed us and any language barrier was soon broken down.  The views in the Alps were everything I had expected but it was Belgium and the WW1 sites around the area of Ypres that has had the biggest impact on my journey. This was mainly to do with Mr G who not only took me to Tyne Cot but also gave me a quick history lesson on the area. The aim of our 20 years of planning was to ride through the tunnel at Monaco like so many F1 drivers have done in the past. Not only did we ride through the tunnel on several occasions we managed to complete the majority of the GP circuit. It was an amazing feeling not only to be there but to be doing it with my best buddy.Mate a big thank you from me for all we did last week, without you my journey would have not been complete and it is a pleasure to call you my best buddy.

Well the next trip is Italy with Mrs G later in the year and of course I will be writing it up.

Monaco....at last!

Well its 2015 and so far this year the only big ride was a weekend to Bath with Mrs G and two mates. I very drunken time was had by all. A good ride but cold (it was February).

Then of course was the quick trip to The Ace Café for the Adventure Travel Show. First time to the Ace Café so was real treat. Didn't buy anything but saw Graham Fields, Austin Vince, Sam Manicom and a host of other authors. Thought it might be a bigger show but never mind. Rode home to Kent via central London, poor old Mrs G gets taken to Oxford Street at last but as pillion and we didn't stop.

 

So onto today's real reason for updating the blog. 20+ years ago my best friend and I hatched a plan to go to Monaco and ride through the tunnel (in those days like Nigel Mansell and Ayrton Senna). Well a number kids of children and marriages later we are going on that trip. I am taking the Super Tenere and Mr W is taking his Triumph Sprint. We are loaded and ready to roll. We are on the underwater ferry (Channel Tunnel) tomorrow morning and are away for a week. The plan is to ride to Grenoble on the Toll motorway's on day 1. Day 2 will be the N85 Route De Napolen (Thanks Paul) over the Alps down towards Nice then into Monaco. We will spend a day riding around filming with the GoPro and then head north back over the high Alps via the Route Grand de Alpes (D902). This route ends at Lake Geneva and from there we will see what time we have and what route to take.

I will be updating the blog when I can. Very excited about this trip.

 

Updates from France see you on the road.