Day 8 to 10 - Altitude Sickness hits

A great nights sleep in the Darbha and fresh Chai when we awoke. We packed up paid the bill and set off towards Leh. My bike started to run really bad at altitude a lack of power and a misfire. The only way to get anything from the bike was to turn the fuel on and off to make the mixture leaner. We crossed Baralacha La at 4980 m and down the other side. I managed to lose a petrol can which bounced down the road splitting open. We managed to save 3/4 of the fuel which went into my bike. We crossed into Kashmir at Sarchu and showed our passports at the military checkpoint. On we travelled the roads in quite good condition and the views spectacular. 

We ended the day at Pang but I was in a bad way suffering from Altitude sickness. Pang is 15,000ft and staying the night was the only option it was too late to ride anywhere. We went to a Darbha with a bedroom and we decided to stay. I went to bed, felt sick, headache, drained of energy and nose bleed. Managed to eat a roti and drink chai and water. We were joined in the room by 3 Indians and and a guy from Israel. 

Slept well but but woke with a headache still feeling the effects. Dean was also feeling the effects and we decided we would not travel on to Tagland La (Worlds highest roundabout). We had also decided we did not have enough time to go to Leh and get back to Delhi.

We all left and went up to the Moray Plain only about 10 minutes away. 

Simon and Jim were going to make Tagland La me and Dean were going to return to Sarchu and wait there for the other two either later that day or the next morning. We split up and watch them ride off across the plains. We had to travel up to get down twice. We really felt the effects and it was a slow plodding day back to Sarchu which we arrived at just after lunch. At 4pm the other two had not arrived so we found a darbha with a room (£2). We read books, washed clothes and drunk chai. At about 6.30pm the other two arrived we ate and had an early night. Sarchu is still high at 13,000 ft and we were still suffering.

  Not the best of nights but up and away, had a dicky tummy today...no sneezing etc otherwise could be trouble. Today is Saturday haven't had a shower since Tuesday and I am starting to smell.

Met a really nice India guy called Ssaajanm from Bangalore who was riding his KTM. Had a really great chat about motorbikes and India. He is also blogging and his is at www.getridingyoubum.in

The lady in the photo is from the darbha and looked after us very well.

We tried to make an a telephone call from the military base at Sarchu but no luck there as the guy was at breakfast. We started out trip south and had a few river crossings, I managed to hit a pot hole and nearly went over the handlebars. No damage to me or bike. By lunch we were down to a respectable height and the symptoms in both me and Dean disappeared. Altitude sickness is a weird condition as I was fine last time in the Himalayas. I went onto reserve with my fuel tank and i have no spare, Dean managed to get a couple of litres at £1.50 per litre which he has kept back. We are about 20-25km from the fuel station at Tandi. Should make it. (Fingers crossed)

So as I type this I am sat in a hotel in Keylong which has hot water , showers, proper toilets and wifi. It's £12 each but includes dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow. And yes before you ask I have had a shower and it was great.

Tomorrow the plan is to get fuel and head into the Spiti Valley heading back to Shimla. We have had varying degrees of information from other riders as to the condition of the road and the time it will take. We are going to give it 3 days so hopefully be reporting from Shimla on Tuesday or Wednesday.