Monday, 8 July 2013

India day 4 + 5


Up early and Andy disappeared off to the shipping agent whilst Simon and I sorted the room out. By the time we were ready to go it was 1100. We started the day by taking the wrong road and having to retrace our steps. The roads were wet. The roads changed from immaculate tarmac to gravel roads. The usual India road users were out and about. The bends in the roads allowed good exit from the corners and plenty of vision therefore making the riding fairly easy. At 1300 we stopped for Chi and Andy had been in collision with a swarm if insects one of which committed suicide on his face leaving body parts imbedded in his skin. All sorted very quickly.

After Chi we set off again and passed through a couple of towns which appeared to be bases for the TATA trucks. There weres hundreds of them. All this riding was by the way was in fantastic picture postcard scenery. We eventually hit a town called Mandi where we crossed a river on a bit of an old fashioned bridge. After this we crossed the top of a hydro-electric dam and onto a road carved into the hillside. So on our left was a rock wall and our right a drop into a river leading to the dam. The road was one of the best and were able to see far ahead and overtake as much as we liked. At about 1700 we stopped for Chi again and we saw a footbridge so had to go and take photos, it was a bit wobbly.

We pressed on knowing that sunset was 8pm. We got this info from a group of Enfield riders from Mumbai whom we stopped and chatted with earlier in the day. At about 25 miles from Manali the light was fading fast and the roads were getting bad, we had said we would not ride in the dark for any reason. It was huge relief getting to Manali and being stopped at the town taxiation point. All non out of state vehicles must pay a tax of 100R =£1.

We rolled into Manali and chose the first hotel we came to, Hotel New Shivalik. 1340R=£13 for three of us one room. Quick shower and change and off into town for a curry and the non alcohol restaurant soon found beer for us at a price. Good food and good beer. Then off to the Khyber bar for beer and cocktails. Slept well I can say.


5/7  Woke up to find we are surrounded by a mountain, the sides are covered by pines trees (very Alpy) and the top obscured by cloud. We walked into town and had breakfast. We then made enquiries with the local tourist offices about permits. We filled out the permission forms and paid the 100R cost to be issued with permit forms to cross the Rotang pass. We then befriended a shoe cleaner called Sanjay who took us to a parts shop/fabricator to make a new horn bracket which had snapped off. We noticed this during our morning bike inspection.

With that done it was then onto an internet café for updates on the internet. Only when we left did I find out they had Wi-Fi and could have downloaded this blog. We then bought a drink and sat on the main street people watching. We were close to a ATM and I saw a man go to the ATM we had a quick conversation and it transpired it was Simon Gandolffi the author from one of the Horizons meetings. I have also read his book ‘one man and his bike’. Sanjay joined us and chatted about the UK and India for over an hour.
Evening Meal was Chinese and beer where raised a glass to Kirsty's 20th birthday

(sorry again no photos uploading issues with Kasmir wifi)

India day 3 + 4


5am the alarm rings and its time to get up. Delhi heat is full on. Quick shower and get changed into the bike gear. The porter brings in toast and coffee. We load up the bikes and at 6am Simon arrives along with the guide. Bikes are loaded, hydration packs filled and we are under way from the hotel. The Delhi roads are quiet compared to the previous days. The guide escorts us through the city to the ring road and onto National Highway 1 (Grand Trunk Road North). Both Andy and I notice the weight distribution of bags needs to be looked at as the bike wobbles at low speed.
So off we trundle up the NH1 at about 70kph. Its quiet to start but gets busier. We had been warned about the road and how dangerous it was. Well it’s a road that requires full attention 100% of the time. Any non-concentration could result in death. The road is as wide as the M25 with shops on the hard shoulder, traffic coming in the wrong direction, pedestrian crossings, various farm animals and anything else you can imagine. Even we saw a nice looking tea stop, turned around and drove back down the hard shoulder. Amazing experience but got even trickier when the road went to diversions….Imagine the M25 being directed off onto a cross roads with no traffic lights or roundabout.

We made good progress out of Delhi and the scenery turned to paddy fields, farming and the odd village. Speed bumps are placed before the village which not good on an Enfield all loaded.  At a tea stop we repositioned the luggage making the ride better. 

Now the plan was to spend two days getting to Chandigarth (foot hills of the Himalayas) then another day to Shimla. We made such good progress due to the road improvements we reached the outskirts of Chandigarth by lunch. We stopped at a drive thru MacDonald’s (just for a drink, ice cream and the AC). We made the decision to go for Shimla. Chandigarth was horrendous but managed to get on the expressway and powered out of the city and started to climb. OMG we saw in front of us the Himalayas, one of the most amazing sites I have ever seen. They have built the Himalayan expressway and oh how I wish I had my own bike the bends were at race track standard.

We stopped as the expressway ended and had photos. We had about 100Km to Shimla so off we went bend after bend after bend. Some of the most amazing riding I have ever done. The bends have to be watched with tourist jeeps, TATA trucks and buses overtaking two a breast on the bends. Only once was I put off the road. Also have to watch for pedestrians, monkeys, cows, rocks, cars shops actually just about anything you can imagine.

We stopped for Chi and a Indian man from Manchester paid our bill as a welcome to India. The staff then tried to rip us off by saying we owed 100R (£1). We told them to sod off and didn’t leave a tip.

At about 5pm we rolled into Shimla after the best riding I have ever done, overtaking, sheer drops and bends to die for. (Teapot one – Bruce when you get here go to Shimla you will love it)
So at the end of the first days riding we had done 250 miles and climbed to 7000ft.
We rocked up to the most posh looking hotel we could find. From everywhere we were accosted. Simon found someone offering a cheap room. So we followed him to the Gulmarg Regency Hotel. 1450R=about £15 for a room for 3. Underground secure parking and the room is wood panelled with a mirrored ceiling. Nicknamed ‘shag palace’. Quick shower and change and off into town but the monsoon was in full swing. Wearing macs we had to buy umbrellas because the rain was so heavy and found a local eating house. Fried chilli chicken and nan bread. So cheap.

Got soaked going back and I mean soaked. At the hotel and bed, long day and all knackered. Our hotel room was on the second floor but because Shimla is built on the side of a mountain the second floor is down and not up. No windows in our room.

The next morning we all woke up at 10am. Had coffee and then went out into Shimla to explore the town. We went to Wall Rd which is like the main High Street. We saw the old colonial building’s left behind after the Raj. We walked to another part of the town and had lunch in a small café. In the afternoon we explored the other half of Wall Road. Andy found a shipping agent and decided to ship some of his excess kit and clothing back to the Delhi hotel to help stabilise his bike.

That evening we found a bar and the first beer of the trip. The bar overlooked Wall Road and we ordered curry with our Kingfishers. A great evening was had and we walked back to the hotel to get some sleep ready for the ride to Manali tomorrow.

 Sorry no pics but they just won't upload.

 

Monday, 1 July 2013

India day 2

So much to tell you about today blog fans.
Overnight it was incredibly hot. The AC in our room sounds like a generator so we turned it off just to be able to go to sleep. We are now on Delhi time and slept for 10 hours.

Breakfast in the room brought by the friendly staff at the hotel. (I only think they are friendly as I over tipped them on the first day 100R=£1, normal tip is 10R=10p)

Went to Lallis workshop at Indermotors and finally met the man himself. Sorted out some of the paperwork and one of his men took us for a ride into central Delhi. Mental, but the most exciting ride I have ever been on. Andy nearly had an incident with the Royal Air Force, I'm sure he will explain but he's safe. We went right into the heart of official Delhi and saw the Parliament buildings and in the distance India Gate. But no time to sight see when riding in Delhi. Once we got back the spares and tools we are taking were explained to us and we had a full course on how to mend the Enfield with a hammer and gaffer tape. (I have the Gaffer tape). Lalli has sat us down and explained the rules of highway driving in India and how the locals treat the highways. Needless to say we listened intently and took it all on board. (basic concept: expect the unexpected, avoid big things that hurt)  The mechanics fitted my GPS power lead and after we had finished the 'Borrowing' agreement (cannot hire motorbikes without an official licence) we had the Pooja ceremony. Lalli said prayers to the god Ganesh and garlands were placed on the bikes and we all shared a sweet rice dish.(Even the bikes). Incense was burnt on the handlebars. The bikes were then delivered to the hotel.



We then went off into Delhi on the Metro. We had decided to go and see all the places we had seen earlier but on foot. Well we got a bit lost and found ourselves quite a walk from central Delhi so we got into an 'auto' (Tuk Tuk). The driver agreed to take on a tour of the sights (300R=£3). Excellent tour but had to endure the family carpet shop routine......We don't have any carpets.

                                          India Gate - memorial to the war dead.

We ended up at a shopping Plaza we visited last night but today there was so many beggars. Lots of little children but it has been explained to us not to pay them as the children are passed around to beg. (Fagin style).

So anyway back at the hotel. Coffee and water (3lts today). We are going to a recommended chicken restaurant tonight which all the locals go to. We are going to pack up later ready for a 6am start to get out Delhi before the heat really gets going.

Sometime later.....

 
 Been out to the restaurant and had a full chicken dinner with Andy and that came to £7.  Bags are packed and we are skyping home and facebooking etc.

Will update the blog from somewhere north of India over the next couple of days.
 
 
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Sunday, 30 June 2013

Day 1 Delhi

Well we arrived safe and sound on India Air. We were collected as arranged and taken to the hotel. Hotel is good and a little haven from the madness of Delhi.
The city is hot, noisy, smelly and very overcrowded. The place is cheap to live but poverty is everywhere. Found a Macdonalds for lunch (they don't sell burgers)
We met Simon this afternoon and discussed the trip.
So early night tonight and tomorrow we meet Lalli Singh to sort out the bikes. Its gonna be a good trip.

A couple of photos from the streets around the hotel

Monday, 24 June 2013

India D-Day -5

Well 5 days to go before we head off to India. Simon flew out yesterday and we should see him on Monday in Delhi. In the mean time we are packing and sorting out the last few bits. I am hoping the hydration pack I ordered from Lincoln turns up in the next couple of days.

I have taken over the lounge will all my kit laid out ready to pack at the end of the week. Two days left at work (Can't be arsed).



The most essential parts to travel in India are included.....The toilet roll back right of the picture and the boxes of diarrohoea pills (next to the t-shirts). Everything I take I have to carry, so on the left is my riding gear and the bag can be packed down into my second bag. The second bag is then going to be strapped onto the bike. Before you ask only 3 pairs of pants...A bit risky but hey the whole trip is a bit risky.

 India news update
Currently there is a few environmental and political issues in India, firstly the newspapers out there are reporting strikes by Air India....bugger. The monsoon rains are causing major flooding north of Delhi and today I see the east side of Delhi has actually had some flooding. Another 4 days of heavy rain expected. Media is reporting 1000 dead in the Himalayas.
Today in Srinagar the army had a shoot out on the east side of the town with some militants. 4 soldiers are dead. The Indian PM is due in Srinagar tomorrow.

Hopefully the next update will be from India.
See you all soon
Geoff

Friday, 7 June 2013

Indian Himalaya trip

 


Blog Extra News

Since me and Andy came back from Russia we have discussed the idea of going to India. We decided to organise our own Himalya trip. One objective to get to this point.


                                                         (source Google images)

This is Khardung La just outside Leh near to the line of control in Kashmir. Its 18000 feet above sea level.

So planning has been taking place since Christmas. We have two seats on an Air India flight from Heathrow to Delhi.
We have organised two 500cc Royal Enfields from Inder Motors (Lalli Singh) which are all booked.



We have a hotel booked near to Lalli's workshop for the first two days and the last day.

International driving licences and visas have been obtained at considerable cost. (£100)

So we go in three weeks and it looks like we will be joined by Simon. Simon is from Plymouth and a avid adventurer (motorcycle and cycle). We met him at the Horizons event last year when he was presenting on India and America.He will be in Delhi at a volunteering project and had decided to join us. We should meet him in Dehli on his Honda Hero 150.

This is what we are expecting:

 
 
(Source from Horizons Unlimited)
 
Keep an eye on the blog from 29th June as I will be posting from the road. I will endevour to update Facebook and Twitter.
 

New ride

BLOG NEWS

Well the BMW has not been running its best recently. A hefty repair bill of £430 was enough to start thinking about trading up. Anyway went to Derbyshire two up with Mrs G to the Horisons Unlimited HUBB event without incident. But that proved I needed to trade up when Andy had to carry some of the luggage.
So I have bought a XT1200Z Super Tenere from Alford Brothers in Folkestone.



Very please with it and have orderd a couple of bits to 'farkle' it up.

Met the Wandering Waltons at the HUBB which sealed the deal Yamaha for me.

Bike update in due course when all done.